I have a thing about places that are over-touristed (is that even a real word?). They look great in Instagram, they give you over-the-top hospitality and luxury, and it feels like an escape into a world where things are simple and nothing really matters. I enjoy these things too, once in a while. But for the perks that they give, they also take away the thing I like most about travel – to assimilate into a different culture, a different life, and watch the world through a stranger’s eyes, from some other parts of the world you don’t belong in. In other words, I wasn’t crazy keen on Santorini before I got there. In pictures it looks perfect, and if there is one thing I know about picture-perfect things is that it will not be the case in reality. My flight to Santorini Island was delayed for 4 hours, and as I sat there in the Athens Airport, grumpy and unshowered, I thought to myself, Santorini better be really good. And it turns out Santorini delivered. When you land at the airport of the small island, you can take either a personal chauffeur or the local bus to your hotel, at a flat price rate (the bus is staggeringly cheaper). Santorini is mainly divided into two parts; the East side of the island is where the local lives, with more beaches and less people, and the West side which is the main star, the mecca of tourism of the island. I settled into one of the rooms overlooking the coast, and immediately was glad I only carried a light backpack. Santorini is not for the unfit nor the knee-deformed humans. Oia, which is a small section North of the island, consists of hundreds of small rooms and villas, each interconnected by narrow roads, steep stairs and confusing routes to go around. To add to the confusion, everything is white. There is not one single man-made wall, bridge, roof, and fence that is not in the default whitest-of-white paint. Everything is so white, your teeth feels yellow. Everything is so white, you’ll need sunglasses or risk very bad glare. Remember how beautiful Santorini looks in Google? I thought I’d let you know it looks even better in real life. There is something breathtaking in the offset of colours here – everything white, with dots of church domes painted sapphire blue. The cliffs are wrapped by the small white squares, and against it, the dark, misty Aegean sea. The narrow streets are adorned with small restaurants, gift shops, book shops (note: one MUST visit the Atlantis Bookstore, dubbed as one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world) and mysterious wooden doors. If you travel on foot from Imerovigli to Fira, you’re in for a treat. It’s probably one of the most beautiful walks you’ll ever have on an island. Take your time when you do it. Stop by for drinks. Explore the hidden picturesque spots along the road. Pause to enjoy the view once in a while. I did the walk during sunset, and I recommend you do the same. If you’re looking for something a little more quiet, take a bus and stop by Pyros. Pyros is the ‘orginial’ Santorini, which basically lets you see how the island looked like before all the tourism came into the picture. Pyros is quiet and lonely, with a Byzantine castle on top of the hill that you can reach by walked up the narrow streets of the neighbourhood. Get up there and see the whole of Santorini from a bird’s eye point of view, because this location is right at the centre of the curve of the island. There is a small café at the foot of the castle called Penelope, and you can sit back and enjoy some sun and breeze with a tall glass of frappe (did you know frappe originates from Greece? So you know you gotta have some) and a plate of tomato fritters (found everywhere in Greece, but originates from Santorini). And while you’re enjoying the epitome of hyperpolic tourism, why not feast, island style? It’s an island, so expect its forte to be all the produce of the sea. People seem to really enjoy smoked octopus here, and it seems that they have perfected the art of prepping the tentacles so that they are never rubbery. Seafood pasta, grilled swordfish, and if you miss home than head down to Fira and there is a square with ethnic food options – I had a bowl of tomyam. Whoops. #asianproblems And then, by the end of it, you haven’t been to Santorini if you haven’t seen a sunset in Santorini. Unfortunately the crowd gets crazy at the good viewing spots, but that’s okay. Happiness is best when shared with a crowd of sweaty, loud strangers, right? Oia is known to have the best spots for sunsets, especially if you go up to the old castle ruins. Watch the sun go down beyond the horizon, turning everything that is white into yellow, and everything that is blue into a dark mystery. The windmill at the edge of the island looks faraway and mythical, and despite your fear of heights (read: me), climb up the walls of the castle and stay there until the sun is long gone and the cliffs lghts up with thousands of sparkling dotted yellow lights and you’re once again, looking at Santorini in a brand-new way.
As you sit there, you’ll think to yourself how the heck it is that you got so lucky to see these beautiful places with your very own eyes. And you should think so. Santorini demands that you do. What was the first word that crossed my mind when I landed in Saudi Arabia? Beige. Everything is beige. The desert that seems to extend for eternity, miles and miles of complete nothingness except for brown sand, brown sand, and even more brown sand. It reminds you of the Star Wars movies, the scenes of alien planets that are just hot and barren with absolutely no living thing. The camels are brown. The buildings are tall and brown. But then you realize that the thing about this place is that you need time to observe it properly to realize that there is more to it than just bland-colored buildings, men in white robes and women covered from head to toe in black. And if you ever visit Ta’if, the city on the slopes of al-Hada Valley, this is when you begin to see that there might just be more than meets the eye about Saudi. The first rule of a traveler is you need to be objective. This means stepping out of your predetermined impression of what a place is like. And I’ll be honest – like the most of us, of course I had an impression of what Saudi might be like. When it was described to me that the al-Hada valley is a haven, I was perplexed. A haven? How is a haven possible in the middle of a scorching hot desert? But as I strolled down the many stalls selling local fruits, all bursting with beautiful colors and juicy natural sweetness, I was amazed with the amount of produce the valley is able to yield. The place was so much more pleasant than I expected; a more temperate weather due to its elevated location, amazing historical monuments, and gorgeous ripe grapes I nibbled on as I explored the Ta’if city. Slightly outside the city, you get to see ancient history. Small mosques, centuries old, just as small as the modern-day huts made of clay so that they block the cold in the winters, and yet stay cool in the summers. You can roam around mindlessly and check out the old manuscripts and books kept in the corners of these small buildings. It makes you wonder what life must be like back then, when these buildings were all there were. Did people in these times went through the same things we went through? Definitely a much simpler life, I concluded. I stopped by a streetside tea ‘station’, which is basically an outdoor stove with large iron kettles brewing scalding hot, overly sweet mint tea. In the evenings when the temperature drops, this is the best choice of beverage, whereas in the hotter middays one must give the pomegranate juice a shot – the pomegranates are locally grown and naturally ripened, which make for divine juices. If there is one other thing this region is famous for, it’s the roses. You might think that it’s just some little old local rose farming, but al-Hada produces some of the best out there, with the flowers being used by notable perfume houses, like Chanel and Guerlain. Drop by a rose farm and you get to sample the products infused by these intoxicating floral fragrances. For me, the highlight is the farm itself. It’s the strange paradox; the background is of rocky, sandy hills, but the roses seem to thrive here, all lush and green and intertwined by rosemary and sage plants. It’s quiet, cool, and smells like you’re in a luxurious perfume bottle. So I suppose there really is more to Saudi than meets the eye. I’ve only been to al-Hada Valley, but if that was any indication, I suspect that there are so many other hidden gems, just waiting to pleasantly surprise us with the fascinating secrets they have to offer.
Furore is part of the greater Amalfi coast, yes, but it is not exactly Amalfi as what you would see in the postcards. It’s actually about 30 minutes away from Amalfi town, so really, Furore is a small, quiet, coastal village a bit off from touristy Amalfi. And rightfully so, as it has its own charm and personality. I arrive in Naples and after a healthy dose of Neapolitan pizza (of which I finished a whole pie by myself #FATamal), I am greeted by my host, Raniero. We then proceed to drive to Furore in his white Fiat Panda, past fields, villages, coastlines through narrow, curvy roads that would pass for a Formula 1 track. Before I manage to get really sick we arrive, down a small narrow road that leads to a small cottage, right on the coast facing the wide, blue Mediterranean sea. The secluded little cottage Raniero's family's little vineyard, in winter I am gobsmacked. It is just too beautiful for words. The square, white cottage is surrounded by olive trees at the front, grape vines at the balcony and on the right side, large lemon trees next to a barbecue pit, with beautiful, yellow, juicy lemons. Beyond these trees is a vast view of the sea, dark blue, showing signs of a menacing winter rainstorm. The cottage itself feels like some kind of Diva Channel Telemovie scene brought to life (no cute rugged Italian farmer though, unfortunately) – it is cosy, detailed to perfection. There is a large fireplace in the living room with a couch and guitars, and above the mantle are picture frames and trinkets with Italian words engraved. The kitchen has a small wooden table at the centre, and you can imagine Raniero’s mom moving about; the counter with drinks and cups, a pantry with at least 10 different types of dried pasta (I counted), a stove with an array of local olive oil of all types to try. The narrow staircase leads to the bedrooms and bathroom. The bathroom is cute, with a small bath tub that has a window overlooking the sea. But the bedroom is a world in its own. There are floor-to-ceiling book racks filled with editions of many languages, vinyl records, board games, and mementos from the owner’s travels. But of course, the best thing has to be the writing desk. It is a large wooden one, and it faces the Mediterranean sea, the breeze coming in through the balcony doors past the blue and white curtains. One could easily imagine sitting there for hours, writing, reading or just plain daydreaming. Window to the Mediterranean To be clear, I wouldn't be caught dead in those crocs. They were already there at the house. There is a small coffee shop where the locals would drop buy for a cup of coffee or a slice of local desserts made that day. Furore has a few restaurants, but most would close down during the low season. There are also local grocery stores, and upon Raniero’s advice, I go into one down the street, manned by a cheerful nonna, and ask for the local specialty – fior di latte cheese, sandwiched between some pane (bread) with a good drizzle of local, extra virgin olive oil. The result? Delizioso! Fior di latte is a relative to mozzarella – think of a softer, creamier version of it. It was so good I ate it again for breakfast the next day, by making a caprese salad with juicy, ripe local tomatoes and some of the olive oil at the cottage. By this time I had given up on the idea that I was going to try and go slow on the cheese at the mercy of my waistline. One could pop in the coffee chop for a cup of Napoli's best! Caprese's salad at the front porch, using fior di latte local cheese Missing pups :( Sunrise is what the cottage is all about. It faces the sun at this time of the day, and as the rays of sunshine emerges from behind the tall cliffs, I find myself just standing in the chilly morning outside, taking it all in. The local farmers start early here, so as soon as the sun rises you can hear and see them going about their business. Some are trimming olive trees, some gathering the lemons and oranges they grow, some revving their truck engines, and some taking their dogs out. I sit outside watching the morning go by with my plate of cheese and a cup of hot lemon tea made from the lemons outside the house. Furore feels like one of those magical, hidden Italian villages you would come to when you need a break from life. It’s quiet, beautiful and lonely, like an imaginary pause button when you desperately need one. With delicious local produce and a picturesque coastline to match, it’s all you would ever need for an epic escapade. NOTE: You can check out my short Vlog of Furore at my Instagram page! Olive trees set on the coast, right in front of the house
I’ll be honest – I’ve never really thought about going to Japan anytime soon. I’m not really sure why. Perhaps it’s because although I enjoy Japanese food, it’s not really my favourite, and I seem to always attach travel to some kind of gastronomic indulgence so I tend to want to go to places where I can eat things I like. I saw Japan from the eyes of the TV, and it always looked so regal and clean and flowery and cultural. So I suppose I’ve always felt that it was a rather interesting place, but the urge to actually go never really manifested itself. But one day, an opportunity came and I just couldn’t pass up the chance to go see Japan for myself! I spent about a week exploring the city and its outskirts, and here I list my Top 10 things I think you should not miss out on if you ever land your butt in Tokyo. 1. See A Glimpse Of Mount Fuji In Hakone Okay, this isn’t exactly in Tokyo city. In fact, you’ll have to take a 2-hour train to Hakone, a highland village surrounded by gorgeous rivers, lake, and greens with a supreme view of the majestic Mount Fuji. Take the Hakone Free Pass, which means you pay around RM200 for full access to all its public transportations (cable car, train, bus, ferry, 2-coach tram) for 2 days, including the train from Tokyo to Hakone. When you’re here, try your best to get on all types of transportations, as each of them offers stunning views of different things – the ferry goes around the beautiful Lake Ashi, the buses give you access to peaceful shrines, and the cable car takes you for breathtaking views of Mount Fuji. Food is a little more expensive than Tokyo, and I bought decent meals from 7-eleven or Lawson and would eat by the river while enjoying some sun and watching Japanese teenagers take pictures like they’re in America’s Next Top Model. 2. Be A Child In Disneyland I know it sounds kind of lame. Disneyland? What are you, twelve? (I wish. I had lots more collagen back then) But there is a reason why this is the happiest place on earth. When you’re in Disneyland, be a kid. Really. That’s the best way to enjoy it. Dance, sing along to childhood Disney tunes, eat junk food, go for rides, climb here and there, laugh a lot, and watch the parades. Disneyland is enchanting and picture-perfect and beaming with unadulterated joy that you’ll no sooner forget about your work or your ex or your mundane Netflix life. At least for a while anyway. By the way, did you know that Mickey and Minnie live in separate houses? Kind of sends the wrong message to the kids about marriage, if you ask me. 3. Eat At A Tiny Neighbourhood Restaurant Prior to my trip I did a lot of research that alluded to eating out in Tokyo as ridiculously expensive. Which is true, up to a point. It was hard to find a proper meal that costs less than RM20, for instance. And I suppose you should expect that from a city that boasts more Michelin Star restaurants than any other place in the world. But that being said, I also discovered that the best way to enjoy local Japanese food without selling your kidney is to try the smaller, neighbourhood restaurants. Get off the main tourist areas and into the quieter districts of Tokyo, and you’ll find plenty of small eateries (with only a few tables or less, or even just bar seating) with delicious house specialties. And for the love of God, try not to McDonald’s your way out of mealtimes. 4. Join The Crowd At Shibuya Crossing Only tourists will ever find joy in joining a crowd of hundred trying to cross the street. But then again, for all you aspiring Insta-Famous celebs out there, what is a trip to Tokyo without a snap of the organised chaos of humans at this popular junction crossing? The appeal to me is the herds of humans in this big, big city, and you’re just another one of those hundreds in that junction point at that particular time. It makes you feel small, in a way. My tip would be to go there around sunset, as the lighting gives off a better picture, and you’ll be in time to see the billboard lights pop against the darkening sky. There’s also a statue of Hachiko (if you don’t know what this is, suffice to say that you should watch the movie and bring a lot of tissues), and once you’re all done with people-watching, why not pop over at the Lindt Chocolatier Café nearby? Try a cup of its dark hot chocolate. Then thank me later. 5. Find Hidden Treasures at Jimbocho Secondhand Book District Jimbocho District is the second largest secondhand bookstore area in the world. It comprises of a few streets with a lot of secondhand bookshops, and in the ultimate Japanese manner, categorized neatly according to book genres. If you’re a book lover you would probably hyperventilate (at one point, a Japanese bookstore owner had to try and calm me down when I found a 1970 copy of the ORIGINAL WINNIE THE POOH book. I bought it, by the way). If you’re not a book lover, you’ll still appreciate the sentiment of the area. The stacks and rows of old books are absolutely picture-worthy, and you’ll enjoy going through some of the old editions – it’s strange to think that some of the scribbles in the books are from people who lived in a different lifetime than us and are long gone. This is a great place to get art pieces and/or some original souvenirs. Think old sent-out postcards, vintage Doraemon comics and leather bound children’s books. 6. Sample Sashimi At Tsujki Fish Market And if you have the balls, why not show up at the market at 3 am in the morning to witness the world-famous tuna auction? If that doesn’t float your boat, I bet eating does. So head over to the streets along the market to sample some Japanese breakfast. Sashimi at 5 am? Because why not? Unlike some dodgy sushi outlets back home, here you’ll find that the seafood is fresh (well, you’re at the fish market after all), and there are so many options to choose from. 7. Shrine Hopping At Old Tokyo If you’ve seen one shrine, you’ve seen it all. That’s probably what my Dad would say. But my Dad probably has not walked around Old Tokyo to check out its many shrines and cemeteries. Old Tokyo, or Yanaka, is an area in the suburbs, much quieter and dotted with many small, unique shrines. The cemetery is especially famous during the Sakura season, as the streets are lined with these beautiful tress with cherry blossoms that turn the whole place vibrantly pink. Speaking of Old Tokyo, you can also check out other smaller areas that exhibit Tokyo’s past. There is Golden Gai, which are narrow streets with small, quaint bars that can only host a few people at a time. Piss Alley (unfortunately I didn’t see a single person peeing in public) is also pretty especially at night time with the Japanese lanterns and dim romantic lights along the tiny alleys. Take note that these places will always amp up its food and drinks prices. 8. Try Streetfood And The Vending Machines There are vending machines everywhere! Literally, everywhere! Check these out, and if you don’t enjoy sugary drinks like me you can always take nice pictures with them anyway. On another note, streetfood is a great way to try cheap local food. Of course Takoyaki will always be the crowd’s favourite, warm balls with octopus in the center and a crispy outside. There are grilled meats, crepes, baked sweet potatoes, deep fried favourites and fresh rice crackers, amongst other popular choices. If you’re having trouble choosing which stall to visit, just remember a tip someone gave me; go to the ones where the locals line up. 9. Go Fortune Telling at Senso-Ji Temple And before you go all netizen and wonder why the heck should one believe in fortune telling, I should say that whether you believe it or not, it’s always a fun little activity! Senso-Ji Temple is the oldest temple in Tokyo, and in adapting to the more international crowd coming its way these days, the fortunes are also written in English. They are mostly generic predictions (“You have Good Fortune”, “The one you wait for will come soon” “Better get some cats soon” -__-), so relax and don’t take it too personally. Otherwise, you can always hang around the pretty gardens, visit the shop stalls or watch a religious procession happening in that area. 10. Check Out Cheap Electronics At Akihabara In case you want to spend time choosing new earphones from a choice of 500 earphones on sale, you should really come here to Akihabara. It’s an area with so many electronics shops it will make your head spin, and if you’re one of those crazy gadget-guys, you’ll probably have a seizure. The electronics are in general a lot cheaper than back in Malaysia, and aside from these things, there are also anime shops aplenty (psstt there are also shops selling weird porn anime stuff, in case you’re asking for a ‘friend’). Akihabara is an interesting place to observe the common popular notion of the modern Japanese culture of video games, comic books and technology. So there you go! I’m sure there are so many more interesting things to check out in Tokyo if one has more time, but so far, these are the things that stand out to me the most. Who knows, maybe one of these days I’ll pay Japan a visit again. I certainly am glad to have had the chance to see it for the first time with FlyScoot Dreamliner!
Ahh, Amalfi. If you ever fantasize about being in a real-life Eat, Pray, Love scene, this is the place to be. The narrow roads only big enough for tiny cars to drive by, white linen laundry hanging from the balconies of the storeys surrounding the lanes, the bells ringing from the nearby chapel, you eating a bowl of Pomodoro pasta with generous shavings of Parmesan while the waiter sings Italian Opera from the counter, and afterwards, a delicious scoop of gelato while watching the sunset from the coast. Honestly, you can write a whole novel about Amalfi alone. And it will be a really good story. Amalfi is just a small coastal town, a havoc in the summer but otherwise a peaceful, quaint little area during the low season. Its life centers around the small cathedral square, with houses built upon houses against the steep cliffs, hundreds of staircases and a beautiful cemetery on top of the hill. It’s the type of place that invites you to do nothing – you buy a locally grown orange and eat it by the staircase, you sit at any beautiful ristorante and watch people watching other people, you wander into people’s courtyards and greet everyone with a buongiorno, and you hang out by the sea and watch the sun fade away. Life here really begins in the morning, as most of the locals are farmers or fishermen. By the time the sun is up, the fish market is already up and running. The seafood fare of which Amalfi is famous for is up for show, from all sorts of clams to shiny, slick anchovies. Amalfi’s main local produce are the citrus, and you see it displayed everywhere here. The markets sells knobbly, gigantic lemons and oranges, the tablecloths at restaurants are adorned with prints of lemons, and don’t you dare leave Amalfi without trying them – how about some smoked mozzarella with lemon leaves, or a plate of creamy Amalfi pasta with chunks of its lemon mixed together? Smoked mozzarella with lemon leaves Creamy pasta with chunks of Amalfi lemons The hidden secret of this town would of course have to be the cemetery. And no, stop picturing some horrific rendition of a haunted graveyard from one of those Astro Ria movies. This cemetery is a gorgeous one, set on top of the cliff above the whole centre. It only houses cremations, and you’ll find reading the obituaries fascinating. Some of them dates back as late as the 1800s, with black and white pictures of people in gowns and top hats. Here is also where you’ll get the best view of Positano, as you’re eye-level with all the buildings. White and pastel buildings set against a cliff with blue skies and the Mediterranean sea? Yes please.
But the real gem of the place is actually its people. They are nice, friendly, and are proud of their home. You can easily ask for help anywhere, even though they speak little English. And like any other Italian, they like you more if you like their food. Relax if they yell. They yell at everyone, even their mothers. The neighbourhood is safe and peaceful, and you can wander around like you’re lost in some kind of beautiful maze of courtyards, staircases and narrow lanes. After all, don’t you need to get a little lost in order to be found? I went to Lyon once, a few years ago. But to be honest, I was only there for a night or two so that I could rent a car and drive up to Lake Annecy, a beautiful lake close to the Alps. No, I never really took the time to explore Lyon, or to appreciate what it really is. It sounded like just another French city, and Paris is the French city to me, so why bother? But like that cute awkward guy standing at the corner who wants to talk you but needs encouragement, Lyon needs your time to charm you, so this time around Lyon and I have a second chance to bond. There are a few basic things you should know about Lyon. First, like Paris, it is centered around a river. Paris has the Seine, and Lyon has the Rhone and Saone rivers. But unlike Paris, no herd of tour groups will hog your pictures by the river and bridges. Lyon just isn’t as touristy, and this is a good thing. Secondly, Lyon is mainly divided into two – the New City and the Old City. The Old City is called Veux Lyon, consisting of cobbled, narrow passageways around old medieval and Renaissance buildings. You can walk through the small lanes and enjoy passing by chocolatiers, pastry shops, glace (ice cream) stands, and all sorts of small businesses inside the tall, wooden-windowed buildings. Okay, don’t just pass by them. Eat them, okay? If you’re not making yourself borderline diabetic, then you’re not really in France, are you? If you’re hungry, step into one of the many restaurants there serving local Lyonnaise cuisine. For God’s sakes, don’t be tempted to go for a hamburger. You can get those at the mall back home in Malaysia. Try some local specialties, of which you can read a review of a restaurant I tried in Lyon here. A Lyonnaise dessert specialty is the tarte de praline, a buttery crust with a red sweet, sticky praline filling (picture below). It’s hard to get this outside of Lyon, so you should try it here. If you want a taste of what the local living is like, you should visit the morning farmer’s markets around Lyon. The one I particularly like is the Marche St-Antoine Celestins, a fresh food market by the river close to Veux Lyon. You get to see (read: more eating) the local produce, from cheeses to vegetables to fruits to even rabbit meat. Then after that you could take a walk at Parc Tete D’or, Lyon’s beautiful park that houses an open, FREE zoo. Yes! With lions and zebras and stuff! It’s also beautiful and scenic, with the perfect morning lighting that will make your selfies look like you just swallowed ten sachets of collagen drinks. When you’re tired of the city, it’s time to rent a car and drive out to the villages surrounding Lyon. By the way, did you know that Lyon’s countryside has some of the most beautiful French villages in the country? It’s the kind of small towns and villages that would make you feel like Belle from Beauty and the Beast, but maybe without the singing villagers. Some notable spots are Beujolais and Theize, pretty, quaint villages surrounded by hillsides, vineyards and farms. If you pack a picnic basket, you can find a scenic spot and enjoy your food with a view. Otherwise, the local cafes serve decent food, and even better chocolat au chaud (hot chocolate), café au lait (coffee) or hot tea. Be warned that almost all of the corners of the villages are picture-worthy, so you can unleash the Asian tourist inside of you and click away to your heart’s content. Otherwise, make an effort to take long walks around these villages. Check out the local veg patch, go inside the pretty churches, breathe in the chilly, country air. Do all these while wearing sensible shoes. It’s the country, so skip the heels and impractical handbags. The best thing about Lyon is that it is a lot quieter and a lot cheaper than Paris, but with the similar modernisation of a city. Shopping is definitely cheaper, especially clothes and branded footwear. However, the locals don’t speak English as widely as Parisians, and I find this endearing – it gives the feeling of adventure in a beautiful city where people speak a language you don’t understand.
Lyon is easily accessible by a direct train from Paris, so go on. Your French medieval city slash fairytale countryside awaits! In the corner of a cobbled, tiny street in Sathonay, past a couple of wine bars and small shops selling all sorts of antiquities, you’ll come across a small restaurant, glass windows with grey/brown lining and dim-looking from the outside. This is Le Bouchon des Filles restaurant, listed in the Michelin guide 2017, if you care about those kinds of stuff. It promises traditional Lyonnaise cuisine with staggering reviews and a moderate bill, and that’s why we are there. When you step inside you’ll immediately notice that it’s really tiny. The walls are lined with magenta wallpaper of flowery design, and the tables are long, suggesting a social environment. We make a reservation prior, and our table is at the back, next to the bar where the food comes out of the kitchen, so we have a really good view of the plates that emerge – fluffy mashed pomme de terre (literally translated into ‘apple of the earth’, or potatoes), steak in saucy reductions, clear glasses showcasing snowy-white sorbet, and small casserole dishes with something steaming inside. The waiters are accommodating and friendly, and they all speak enough Anglais (English) to assist you in ordering what you’d like. The menu comes in sets, you pay a fixed amount to get appetizers, starters, any main course of your preference and dessert. I get excited just looking at the menu. I have no idea what they mean in detail, but why is it that when it’s in French, everything sounds delicious anyway? For all I know they actually wrote “deep fried rubber gloves”. The appetizers come, three different types of salad and a basket of warm, soft, carb-o-licious baguette de campagne – lentil salad in creamy rich dressing, a bowl of light, fragrant crunchy salad made of julienned carrots and radishes with coriander and dill, and a plate of shredded purple cabbage tossed with raw slices of tuna. I am hungry because it is late, so I wolf them down in large amounts, not at all unlike the French lady who sits across the room eating from her plate delicately with each bite-sized portions into her mouth. Eventually the plates are cleared and in comes the pumpkin puree infused with lemongrass, served in shot glasses, and I wonder if the waiter just wants me to look en classe based on what he’d seen before. It was light and delicious. By this time, I’m already a little concerned that I no longer have enough room for the main course. Beef kidneys! Who would've thought. This is about the time when the main course appears, of which we ordered fish and beef kidney. Yes, you read that right. I don’t even eat beef kidney in Malaysian cooking because I don’t like the texture, but hey, we’re in France. Maybe rein de beouf would change my mind here (spoiler alert: it didn’t. Not really). The fish though, oh my Lord. It’s a traditional Lyonnaise dish, fish in some kind of flour/bread mixture, in a yellow, creamy sauce, with a piece of coiled fried herby crunchy thing that was just the perfect complement to this hearty dish. Quinelle, a fish dish. Eventually, when the main dish is done, a little small plate of fromage (cheese) lands right in front of us. The great thing about this little platter is that the waiter explains where the cheese comes from – the slice of goat’s cheese comes from the mountains near Lyon, and the dollop of cream cheese infused with garlic and herbs is made within Lyon itself. The portion is perfect, small enough to not make you feel stuffy and big enough so that you can taste everything. And darling, trust me, you would want to taste everything. Cheese platter. Last, and my most favourite part, is the dessert. The restaurant has a list of seven options – from the praline cake, homemade vanilla ice cream with Chantilly, to the decadent molten chocolate cake with meringue and even a simple serving of sliced l’orange with herby syrup. The ones most worthy of mention would of course be the chocolate cake and the citrus sorbet. After all, is it really French cuisine without a dose of dark, bittersweet, superior-quality chocolate in a form of soft, gooey cake? No. The answer is no. The citrus sorbet is a perfect counter to the otherwise rich main course and cheese platter – sharp, sour, and oh so Goddamn refreshing. Clockwise from Top Right: Citrus sorbet, creme caramel, oranges in fragrant herby syrup, praline cake, vanilla ice cream with meringue, molten chocolate cake. Molten dark chocolate cake with salted butter and caramel sauce. When you’re done, you realise that the rest of the tables are being cleared, and like a comforting meal at home no one seems to be rushing you out or giving you the eye. The waiters would consistently come by and ask you if they food is okay, and you will gleefully say tres bien because a.) that’s the only French you know and b.) it really is tres bien (very good).
Eventually, as you put on your jacket again and step outside into the cold, walking down the old, quiet cobbled street back home, you’ll realise you’ll probably have to eat just a crepe for lunch tomorrow but you would want to do this again very, very soon. Turtles, platform-turned-hotel-and-dive-site, black tip sharks, underwater caving A few days after my birthday I found myself in the beautiful Mabul Island. I was there for two reasons – to dive, and to go for what I think would be my last travel with M before she gets married in a few months! Upon being there for almost a week, I came up with a conclusion; this place ain’t famous for nothing. Strangely enough, talking to the locals found that Malaysians don’t really frequent here as much as international tourists do, perhaps due to some bad rep the islands had been getting in the past from terrorist activities (remember that guy who got kidnapped in Sipadan with a ransom? Scary!). In any case, the islands are so beautiful that one can instantly overlook all the army guys patrolling the area frequently. Sipadan Island - courtesy of a friend's drone! #ilovetechnology Mabul Island Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai islands are located in East Sabah, Malaysia, the closest airport being Tawau Airport. It takes an hour by road from the airport to the jetty, and then another hour of boat ride from the main land to Mabul Islad. All three islands are seemingly un-bothered by the fast-paced life of the outside world. Pretty much everyone is there to dive. Mabul is more popular for the micro-animals - think weird looking, alien-like shrimps and slugs of all colors imaginable - whereas Sipadan is where you see the big players, like whale sharks, giant garoupas, manta rays, and a few different species of turtles. Exhibit A: I saw a turtle bigger then myself! (and I always love it when I’m the thinner one! #vain) One of the diving spots in Sipadan. I can imagine what my Dad would say - "sedapnya kalau masak gulai" A picture of a micro-God-knows-what-but-its-cute Bumphead fish - also need some dental work (braces) When booking diving packages here, I would recommend taking unlimited dives. We were diving 3-4 times a day for days, and yet I'm pretty sure I have not seen everything it has to offer. Often it felt like I was crashing a giant, endless sea-world party – there were so many turtles I eventually lost count, barracudas and bumpheads and some other weird looking fish that also looked delicious, lobsters and stingrays and giant eels – I was the stranger. Maybe that’s the whole appeal of diving. You get lost in a world that is not yours, and you’re only there to observe for a change, not to participate. Maybe that’s the addiction. Own toys and rented toys! Barracudas! #stripesaresointrend If you’re like me (me = amateur diver with minimal photography skills), best to be safe and not too carried away with things. When we went for an underwater cave expedition, I admit that it made me uncomfortable. To make matters worse, the Divemaster's torchlight gave out right when we were in the cave and it was momentarily pitch black (first picture). I mean, isn’t this exactly the intro to a bad horror movie where the entrance collapses and we’re all trapped inside and the oxygen runs out and I’m forced to kill someone using a broken shell fragment in the name of survival?? (but I wouldn’t kill M. She promised to buy me a birthday gift for less than RM100) The irony - reading about a city while staying by the beach Local village scenes around Mabul island - check out those sea urchins! The island itself is amazing to explore on foot. Sipadan is much smaller than Mabul, and Mabul has local villagers who live on houses made on stilts by the sea. My favorite thing to do when arriving in a new place is to always go for a nice long walk around the local neighborhood, and avoid touristy watering holes. If you’re friendly enough you’ll make fast friends who will give you free fresh fish, and they were such nice people to invite us over to try the local sea urchin (you hear that Michelin? Ours was free and not a gazillion bucks). I've never actually had sea urchin before, and I thought it tasted... well, brine-y. When traversing through local community at a new place it's always best to keep and open mind and have a big smile on your face! Nobody likes a tight-ass diva. And try not to look too surprised to see a lot of kids running around stark naked and one kid with a cigarette pack. A plate of Tuna 'Kilau' A local delicacy that is a must-try would be a dish called ‘kilau’. There are versions of this everywhere in every seaside place in the world. It’s basically raw fresh fish tossed in lime, chilies, onions and simple seasoning. We had a tuna ‘kilau’, and it was zingy, fresh, light and supremely tasty (above picture). We also had some fried barracuda and weird-looking stir-fried snails at a local restaurant. The latter was oddly chewy, like an overgrown squid. The Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai islands are truly gems of Malaysia. It's such a pride to know that we have such paradise in our own backyard. Just make sure your insurance covers ‘terrorist abduction’ and you’re good to go. Haha ok kidding. It’s one of those places that celebrates the ease of a simple life, with friendly people and just good old beautiful nature. Will I ever go back? Abso-freaking-lutely. Me with the oh-so-popular fish tornado-swirl!
When you get to Bangkok, immediately tell yourself that humidity is really good for the skin, therefore making yourself feel so much better as you sweat right through your shirt and your smudge-free eyeliner decides to betray you. Aside from that, the other thing you’ll notice about Bangkok is how vibrant it really is. There is food everywhere you look, and tourists seem to be a normal assimilation in every nook and corner these days. It’s also a safe enough place to travel solo, as everyone is so friendly and there always seem to be people everywhere and anywhere. These are my highlights on my recent Bangkok trip, although the list of things to do there is certainly much more extended and not limited to what I encountered. 1. The Floating Market This is probably the only thing on the top of my list that I really wanted to go to. There are a few different floating markets in and around Bangkok, but with the help of Migrationology I decided to go for the less-popular, smaller Khlong Lat Mayom floating market. It’s not too crowded, clean, airy and most of all, the abundance of food is crazy! You can get anything from seafood to sweet treats to local kuehs here. Tip: If you purchase something and are not quite sure how to eat it, glance at the tables around you, and follow the locals. 2. The Cheap Massages No surprise here. There is a massage parlour in every street, and in more concentrated places you can find one between two other shops. Although it helps checking internet reviews, all in all they are generally satisfactory. On my last day in Bangkok, I had a two-hour full body oil massage that only costed me RM70, and although the Auntie who attended me had a strange goatee, it was a really pleasant experience. 3. The Amount Of Shops in Chatuchak Market Honestly, if you don’t know what you want to get in Chatuchak Market, you probably would have a rather confusing time. Chatuchak Market is a semi-outdoor weekend market that spans for literally hundreds and hundreds of shops, selling everything from exotic edibles to puppies to interior decorations. I survived for only two hours before getting a headache and feeling like I was in an infinite swirl of items and sellers. But it’s a good spot to walk around and observe local products and even people-watching. 4. The Edible Bugs Prior to going to Bangkok, I had this determination that I was going to eat a bug. By hook or by crook, I was going to experience putting a grasshopper or something of that sort in my mouth. But then I got to a stall selling one, and they all looked so… glossy and real. I immediately chickened out, but compensated by trying a sambal dip made of water-bugs (which actually tasted decent!). Well at least I didn’t have to look at the bug in its original, crawling form. 5. The Sweet Treats A large bowl of coconut ice cream costs RM3, people. I’m dead serious. On a single day I managed to eat 3 bowls of coconut ice cream and plates of sticky rice with mangoes, while convincing myself that coconut milk is the secret to beautiful, Thai-like luminescent skin. 6. The Intricate Wats There are plenty of Wats and Temples to visit, but if you are visiting one be sure to be prepped for the heat. These religious monuments, like most other religious monuments, are beautiful, sentimental and has amazing historical values. No matter what your beliefs are you will come to respect the idea that these things give a lot peace and a sense of purpose to those who embrace them, and this should be reflected in your actions too – there is nothing more annoying than a bunch of tourists monkeying about at other people’s place of worship. 7. The Little Streets Get off the main street. Then walk into and around the smaller lanes of the suburbs, where the locals really live. It’s a fascinating walk. The electrical wire-laden roads, people going about their usual daily business, what the local laundry place really looks like, local lunch delicacies, and basically real lives in Bangkok. That’s the best part of traveling someplace new. 8. The Overrated-ness of Khoi San Street Oh, maybe it’s age. I don’t know. But Khoi San street, the infamous place where they filmed The Hangover 3, was so loud, crowded and overrated that I didn’t really enjoy it at all. Everything is triple the price because of the tourists, and God knows how people were able to eat decently there in the midst of the loud booming music. In any case, a good spot to visit just to check out the scene, I guess. 9. The Savoury Delights
Whatever your preferences, you’ll never ever go hungry in Bangkok. It’s a street food culture, and to avoid being overwhelmed with choice it helps to do a little research of what you’d like to try and where. Perhaps a really interesting discovery for me was the salt-crusted fish, which is basically a large fish crusted heavily in sea salt, and then grilled to perfection and dipped in a delicious green dipping sauce. Noodle soups with unidentified meat in it? Sure, they have it. Chicken Pad Kra Paw? Delicious everywhere. Papaya and mango salads? Cheap and amazing. The less picky you are, the more interesting your gastronomic adventure will be. |
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