THE KAZAKHSTAN-KYRGYZSTAN LOOP: A 10-DAY ITINERARY

​When you think about the Great Outdoors of Planet Earth, Central Asia has to be (if it isn’t already) in your list. There aren’t many places in the world that are roughly untouched yet accessible, and Central Asia is one of these regions to explore. My recent trip to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was done in a loop across both countries, covering must-see places that could be achieved in a 8 to 10-day itinerary. In this article I’ll share some contacts for drivers with 4x4 vehicles (which is the best type to get around in this region, as there are a lot of off-roading ventures), but of course you should do your due diligence and find the best one that fits your needs.
This itinerary begins and ends from Almaty, Kazakhstan.

First of All: To Drive or Rent A Car/Book A Tour?
I thought long and hard about the 2 options. On one hand, I've always loved the concept of independently driving my own car in my trips. However, there were challenges pertaining the extravagant cost of 4x4 rental, as well as lack of information on the reliability of the land borders, especially the Kegen border.
The cost of renting a car and a driver eventually turned out to be the same as renting our own vehicle, and by the end of it I was glad I made the decision to not drive - the roads were at times horrendous and you need experience off-roading for some of them. The drives were very long, and I would've been absolutely knackered if I had to do most of the driving.
My contacts for car/driver/tour:
Kyrgyz Riders: +996558033880
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Day 1 – Arrive and Sightsee Almaty
By the time I arrived in Almaty is was already dark, so there wasn’t much else to do. However, Almaty is a bustling city with a pretty good culinary scene, so I suggest hitting up a good place for dinner, preferably a local restaurant that would give you a proper introduction to Central Asian cuisine. I would suggest Paradise restaurant if you’re in the south side of the city, or Navat hotel that’s much more central, both providing a great ambience and an extensive central Asian menu.
This is also a good chance to get some last-minute purchases in order before the start of the road trip, such as extra jackets if required, or even some snacks.

Day 2 – Traverse The Beautiful Rock Formations of Charyn Canyon National Park
The first part of the drive took me from the city of Almaty to the first stop, Charyn Canyon National Park. What one should note about driving cross-country in Central Asia is that, due to the vastness of the region, drives from one place to another often take a long time. Charyn Canyon is located in the East of the country near the China border, a large canyon formation along the banks of Charyn river. You’ll need half a day to trek and traverse the main length of the canyon, although there are also transfer buses available for a cost.
From Charyn I continued on to Saty, a small local village where I stayed the night. This allowed me to stay closer to the border for the next day. The village itself is small and charming, a great opportunity to immerse yourself in local living.

Day 3 – Cross the Kazahstan-Kyrgyzstan Kegen border, and Explore Karakol Town
I started the day early to get through the Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan border. Unlike the more popular Bishkek border in the West, this one is more remote and susceptible to changes in the weather (snowstorms will close the border down). The drive towards and away from the border is a beauty, past landscapes of green fields and snow-capped mountains, dotted with horses and cows and sheep.
The drive ended in Karakol, a bustling mountain town known for its gingerbread-style buildings (these are Soviet style buildings, known for their pastel colors that make them look like gingerbread houses in Christmas time). I took some time to stroll around Zhamansariev Street, where the buildings are on full display, and the beautiful historic Holy Trinity Cathedral still stands.

Day 4 – Out Into the Wilderness at Altyn Arashan Highlands
Altyn Arashan is a beautiful mountain resort area, although ‘resort’ could be overselling it – it’s mostly simple guest houses or yurt camps. It’s famous for its beautiful sprawling views, alpine meadows and natural hot springs. You could opt to get there via hiking, horseback riding or a jeep. I took the jeep, a horrendous 3-hour drive up harrowing roads that will have you clenching your bottoms, if I may be so graphic.
The place itself is worth the effort, however. Secluded and almost untouched, the landscape offers endless views of pine forests backdropped with dramatic snowcapped mountains, with a beautiful river passing through. I stayed here for a night, which I highly recommend, so that you could truly enjoy a full day just relaxing here.

Day 5 – Experience the yurt lifestyle at Bokonbayevo, and marvel the serenity of Lake Issyk Kul
I left Altyn Arashan after breakfast to descend back into Karakol, and continue the drive West toward the great Issyk Kul lake. The drive passed through a few attractions, like the Seven Bulls rock, Fairytale Canyon and Barskoon Waterfall. If you need to prioritize and are tight for time, prioritize them in that order, from the one most worth seeing to least.
I arrived at Bokonbayevo to my very ‘modern’ interpretation of the yurt. The truth is it was October and too cold for an actual yurt, so we took a small cabin with heating. The view of the lake is equally stunning from where you’re staying, however. 

Day 6 – Horseback Riding in the Sweeping valleys of Jumgal Region, or Song-Kul Lake
Issyk Kul is a large saltwater lake with beautiful shored and sceneries, so make the most of today really enjoying that. You could opt to go to Aksay Canyon, a beautiful geology by the shores of the lake which offers almost unlimited views of the lake, mountains and canyon from a vantage point (which will require a short hike).
From here, you could go on to Song-Kul lake, a much smaller lake in the south west with beautiful grasslands. However due to the weather, we opted not to brave the cold and instead went to Jumgal district. Here, there are small villages with guest houses, and you could relax here while checking out their morning market or even going for a gorgeous horseback ride in the mountains.

Day 7 – Appreciate medieval history of Burana Tower, while driving back to Bishkek
The drive from Jumgal or Song-Kul to Bishkek is a long one, so prepare to spend most of the day traveling. It’s best to remember that the ‘drive’ in this loop itself is an attraction – you are never short of beautiful views, quick stops to check out local produce and even monuments here and there. We stopped at Burana tower, a medieval minaret beautifully preserved with a splendid view to match. I thought it was quite fascinating.
I arrived in Bishkek after dark, and I recommend staying in the city center near Alaa Too Square. That way, everything is pretty much walkable and you can spend the evening walking around the city and admiring the soviet-style buildings in beautiful lights.

Day 8 – Explore Soviet Architecture in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital
I wished I had more time to explore Bishkek, and therefore recommend that you buy yourself some extra time to explore the city. Bishkek is the beautiful capital city of Kyrgyzstan, with so much history embedded in its culture, architecture and cuisine. There is the downtown part of the city where you could find the labyrinth of shops called the Osh bazaar, a wonderful myriad of shops selling everything you could think of under the sun. You could easily lose yourself in the maze of hats, carpets, hardware, food, and clothing for hours. This is also a good place for you to try horse milk, a local delicacy (take note that it is not for the faint-hearted!)
The city center, particularly areas around the Ala Too Square and Toktogul Street offers an exhibition of some fine Soviet-style architecture. In between them are beautifully pruned parks with so many monuments and statues they would make your head spin. On Sundays, the morning market opens near Oak Park, a wonderful display of local products and produce. In the evenings you could relax in the aesthetic cafes in the city, while watching local go by about their business.

Day 9 - A day-long drive across the border, back to Almaty, Kazakstan
Getting back to Kazakshtan through the Bishkek border is fairly straightforward, but we were forewarned that on busy days, it could take up to 2 hours to get across. That being said, it would be wise to start your day early from Bishkek. By the time we approached the border there was a considerable crowd, however I was able to go through it in about just an hour. The next hurdle is a long drive to Almaty, followed by the infamous traffic as you approach the inner city.
The drive takes between 4-5 hours, so it’s best to plan your journey, lunch and toilet stops and try your best to not reach the city at peak hours (after office).
At night, Almaty is vibrant lively place, especially near Arbat G Almaty. You’ll find lively bands, throngs of tourists and plenty of shops to check out. The food scene is also diverse – you can find anything from local, Indian, Chinese and Japanese depending on what you prefer.

Day 10 – Explore the modern and vibrant city of Almaty
Your final day of this trip should be spent in peaceful closure – think relaxing walks around the city, sightseeing some attractions, trying out a couple of restaurants, or just hanging out at the park. The Ascension Cathedral is a beautiful remnant of history, its external build resembling some kind of candyland fantasy. The parks are pruned and trimmed, especially beautiful in autumn. Pretty much everything is walkable, and if you don’t fancy that, the public bus is reliable and convenient.
If you’re looking for last-minute souvenirs and shopping, TsUM is the place to go. However, be wary that everything here is more expensive that the things you would find in Kyrgysztan, such is the price of a metropolitan.
As a final hurrah, a stroll around the Kazakhstan Hotel at sunset will give you the final glimpses of the majestic mountains of Central Asia, while you enjoy your last cup of infused tea.