There is something extremely liberating about long drives along a beautiful coast. You roll the windows down, the ocean breeze hits your face, with the sea open and wide that it makes you envision a freedom. It gets even better if there are small coastal towns and villages for you to stop along the way to sample their slow-paced lifestyles, taste their local delights and watch sunsets in the quiet of the waves lapping onto the shores. If you like all these things, then a drive along the coasts of South Turkey, otherwise known as the Turkish riviera, is definitely something you should do. In general, the Turkish coast drive spans as long as Izmir to Antalya, but if you have limited time and would like to not rush through it, you can always compress it down to a drive from Fethiye to Antalya instead. In fact, you’ll find that most people would agree that this part of the coast is more beautiful. I took a flight from Istanbul to Dalaman airport, which is the closest available airport to Fethiye. It’s called a ‘coastal drive’ after all, so you’ll do well to rent yourself a car and pick it up at the airport which will buy you more freedom. 1. Take A Long Walk By The Pier My first stop, Fethiye, is a large port town with a relaxed atmosphere. I'd say that staying here for at least 2 days would give you ample time to see its main sights, although of course you can stay even longer if you wish to relax even more. The first order of business is to take a nice long walk around the neighbourhood, and so I recommend finding places to stay by the water because that’s where the livelihood of the town is. Even in winter, which was the season I was visiting in, you’ll see people hanging out by the pier, youths cycling down the blue-paved roads and children gleefully enjoying themselves at the playground. The air is crisp, and the sea water is a calm dark blue, with beautiful snow-capped mountains in the background. Yachts bob by the shore, and if you walk along the pier, it will naturally lead you towards the Old Town. 2. Visit The Old Town In the Old Town, you’ll find a fish market, a popular place to go and sample Fethiye’s fresh seafood. If you’re a foreigner, expect the price to be marked up a little. Outside the fish market, you’ll find lots of small cafes dotted along the small streets – why not try out a bowl of lentil soup, or eat a spread of home-style dishes in a mom-and-pop lokanta? Tea shops are also available, which are small shops serving hot tea with some bread. I have recommendations on what you should definitely eat here. In these coastal towns, Fethiye included, you’ll see a seamless blend of the ancient and new. Right smack in the middle of the modern town with modern architecture, you’ll find a sacorphagi. A sarcophagi, simply put, is an ancient tomb, and you’ll see plenty of these as you drive along. The ancient Lycians (who inhabited these coastlines centuries ago) believed that the living and dead should co-exist together, and so you’ll find these sarcophagis in the middle of a bustling town or village. Take a good half day to just walk around and explore the area, while sampling some local cafes. 3. See the Amintas Rock Tombs Another great exhibition of Lycians are the Amintas Rock Tombs. These are virtually impressive, located in the cliffs of the hills in the back of the town. At a first glance, they actually resemble Petra in Jordan, although at a much smaller scale. It’s awe-inspiring to think about the amount of work it takes to carve monuments straight out of the face of a granitic hill. The tombs require a small entrance fee, although I must say it is definitely worth it, because not only do you get to admire some ancient history, but you’ll also get a sprawling view of Fethiye from a lookout point. It’s located at the edge of the city, and a few hours is more than enough for this. 4. Oludeniz Beach
You’ll be spoilt with beaches everywhere you drive along the Turkish coast, but around Fethiye, one of the most beautiful would be the Oludeniz beach. It’s a long stretch of sand capped at the edge by a range of mountains, and in the summer this place would be crowded. In winter, it’s best if viewed from its lookout point – you’ll get to enjoy the dark and mysterious Aegean sea as it splashes against the pale-coloured rugged coasts of the region. To get the most out of Fethiye, I’d recommend staying there for at least 2-3 days, although I opted for a much shorter duration and it still was quite adequate to see key things in surrounding the town. My next stop driving out of Fethiye was Kas, a small charming village town a couple of hours from Fethiye, and you can read about that in the next article, which you can read here! Where To Eat: Go here for recommendations for what I think you should eat in Turkey, in general. If you ask me, I’d tell you that my personal highlight of the entire coastal drive was Kas. I suppose I’ve always enjoyed small villages more than bustling towns, so if you’re like me, I think you’ll find Kas a complete gem. Located at the corner of an extended peninsula of the Turkish coast, it’s a small hilly village with small streets lined with tiny cafes, charming shops and so, so, so many lemon trees. Kas is also a great center point to other places worth seeing around the area – I’ll tell you more about this. 1. Marvel The Old Quarter In almost every town in the coast, you’ll find that each of them has an Old Town, or Old Quarter. After all, Turkey has had a long history of civilization over centuries, so it’s only natural to find these old remnants in every new population, embedded as part of the modern-day habitat. Kas is no exception, and walking around the Old Quarter, you’ll find yourself going through narrow cobbled streets with old houses now turned into cafes, pubs, shops and bakery. Take your time exploring the corners of this area, and if you fancy, drop by a café or two to sample local coffee and baked goods.I’d recommend Gado café, and although the cakes weren’t that amazing to me, its high point is a guy who sits and play the piano for hours, and it’s lovely to sit with a hot cup and listen to. There are also seriously adorable cats roaming roaming around. 2. See The Most Beautiful Beach In Turkey (Allegedly) Beauty is subjective, I know, but there’s something to be said if almost everyone is consistently saying it. Such is the reputation of Kaputas beach, a narrow little beach between two high coastal cliffs. It’s a pebbly beach, and I think what makes it beautiful is the aqua green waters of the Aegean Sea against the pale beige outcrops that makes for a very mesmerizing view. In the summer this beach would be crowded, but in the winter it is almost empty, so you’d do well to make your way down the cliffs and sit for a while on the pebbles watching the sun go by. You can also see Greece from the beach, which is always a treat. 3. Explore The Kayakoy Ghost Town There’s a long list of things you can do in and around Kars, but if you’re stripped down for time and can only choose very few, then please, let this be one of those things. The Kayakoy Ghost Town is a basically and abandoned town that dates back to the 14th century. In the beginning, it was a harmonious town consisting of Anatolian Muslims and Greek Orthodox Christians. However, during the Greco-Turkish war, a population exchange occurred, and people were forced to gradually abandoned this town that had been home to them for centuries. Today, walking around this abandoned town really does have an eerie feeling to it. The stone walls and homes are empty, the large churches echo with voids and you can see the old schools and chapels, eaten by time. I took almost half a day walking around the area as it is very large, but you could easily spend longer here if you’d like. 4. Bask In The Sunset At Hallenistic Theatre A walking distance from Kas center, this amphitheatre won’t be the best you had ever seen, but it does boast a beautiful sunset facing the sea. Back in its days of glory, it could house 4000 spectators, but now it’s a beautifully aged monument. People come to hang out with friends and dates, and it’s generally quiet as the sun begin to set and you can watch it all while sitting on the ancient seats, with Meis Island (Greece) in view. 5. Enjoy A day trip to the village of Kalkan Kalkan is a small village a short drive away from Kas, and I love the chill of it. Fishermen’s boats are anchored by the jetty, and you see locals hanging out by the water, smoking and fishing the day away. Walking down the quiet lanes, you’ll see almost a glimpse of Greek-influenced structures – mosques that look like they were inspired by Santorini, their domes and walls whitewashed against the clear blue sky. The restaurants are beautiful and honours the local specialty of the place. 6. Visit Demre to See The Ancient Town of Myra, But Also To Eat A Lot Of Oranges What?? Another ancient town?? I know, I know, but seriously, they’re beautiful to explore and there are plenty of them along your coastal drive, it’s almost a crime if you don’t keep visiting them until you’re head starts spinning. Myra is an ancient Lycian town located in Demre, and you can spend a few hours roaming around this large space admiring its rock tombs and large ampitheatre. I love how the ruins are well maintained, and if you come during the winter it’s almost empty, so you’ll feel like Indiana Jones sans the villains chasing after you. But wait. I haven’t even told you the best part yet. Myra is located in the current-day orange agricultural area. What this means is when the season is right, you’ll drive through miles and miles of orange trees, their ripened fruits a beautiful color against the dark green leaves. The locals don’t mind if you pluck a few, and there are orange juice stalls here and there where you can enjoy a fresh glass of orange juice for as low as 10 liras. 7. Try Local Produce
This should actually be in the to-do list of any place you ever visit! Trying local produce straight from the fresh food market is great way to get acquainted with the local way of life. You’ll learn about what they grow locally, what’s in season and when, how they eat and if you’re lucky, you’ll get to chat with everyday people doing their everyday chores. In Kars, I had the pleasure of enjoying strawberries, oranges and lemon which were in season in winter. I bought some to eat at home with local yoghurt, and even cooked a proper breakfast using all the produce from the market. It’s quite fun trying out produce, but preparing them in my own personal way. Where To Eat: You can find all my recommendations on what to eat here, but specifically in Kas, Zula Meyhane for a wonderful dinner with a view, Smiley’s for delicious fresh seafood, the small fruit juice stall in front of Myra ruins, Good cafe for some coffee and music. Before I ever visited Turkey, I have always had an impression that Turkish food is mainly just kebabs. I blame this on the stigma that was set on me by Turkish restaurants in the city I live in, Kuala Lumpur. Often, Turkish food is bundled up as middle eastern, when of course this is far from true. For starters, Turkey is located in Europe and Asia, different continents altogether. This broad area means that there are amalgamations of all sorts when it comes to their cuisine – some influences from Greece, some from Middle East, and some from Eastern Europe. So when you dine in Turkey, expect a variation of things that would tantalize your tastebuds (and yes, not limited to kebabs!). Here are some delicacies that I think you should at least try when visiting. 1. A proper Turkish breakfast A Turkish breakfast is a feast. They come in a set platter, with small servings of a little bit of everything – think different kinds of cheeses, local honey, fresh selection of salads, breads, fruit preserves, and eggs prepared in your choice. The classic Turkish breakfast allows you to start the day by sampling local produce, and different regions often have different highlights, like a specialty cheese or a specific way of making eggs. Warm cups of Turkish tea will be accompanying your breakfast feast. 2. Lentil Soup It doesn’t sound very exciting, but truly, if there are only a few things you get to try and eat in Turkey, one has to be their lentil soups. The two generally popular types of lentil soup are the mild yellow and mercimek corbasi, the former a mild warming soup and the latter its slightly spicier sibling (my favourite!). Lentil soup is a popular choice for breakfast, as an entre before a meal and as a warming bowl during the cold winter months. The best part is that they are cheap and accessible pretty much anywhere around the country, especially in a local lokanta. 3. Kunefe Kunefe is a popular dessert found in Turkey, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Palestine, Qatar. Saudi Arabia, Syria, UAE and Bahrain (did I leave anyone out??). In general it is mainly made by from shredded phyllo, cheese, nuts and syrup, although there are actually variations of this anatomy, using different kinds of cheese, nuts, layering and ratio. Kunefe is very decadent, and the best way to enjoy it is at the café or restaurant itself, where they are prepared fresh and served piping hot for you. In Turkey, you’ll find that kunefe is a beloved delicacy. Every town, every village will have a kunefe place, and you’ll often see these places with crowds of locals taking their time to share this dessert with their loved ones. A larger kunefe place will even have a kunefe menu, where you can choose your own variation you’d like to try, or even the house special. I succumbed to having one (or two!) almost every night, and let me tell you, they were worth all the calories. 4. Seafood With long coast lines, a metropolitan revolving around the Bosphorus river and beautiful lakes, it’s no surprise that the Turks know their seafood. Sandwiched between the Black Sea and the Aegean Sea, the variations of fish and shellfish are a sight to behold, and an influence from the Mediterranean means that these are often prepared simply, relying on the freshness of the produce. If you’re wanting to give them a try, a good way is to always ask the restaurant what their specialties are – sometimes it’s their seafood mezes, sometimes it’s their trout, sometimes there are specific kinds of crabs available in the season. Honestly, I’ve never had a bad seafood dish in all my days in Turkey. 5. Local fruits Turkey is blessed with so many agricultural produce throughout its seasons. It is abundant with fruits and vegetables, thanks to the weather and fertile volcanic soils. You get to sample these of course when you eat at restaurants, but others, such as fruits, deserve no other special treatment other than you buying them fresh off the market to enjoy. If you can, pop into a local market and see what’s fresh and in season. Enjoy oranges straight off the trees. Buy a pack of strawberries and dip them in some local yoghurt. In a way, you are also supporting local farmers and small businesses too. 6. Lahmacun and Pide Lahmacun and pide are two siblings of the pizza family. The base is bread, where lahmacun is a thin crust and pide is a thicker choice made with a moat-shaped dough, and the toppings are meat, a mix of meat and vegetables, or cheese. Both can be easily found in their joints almost everywhere, kind of like how you would find pizza joints. The best kinds are always prepared in a woodfire oven, and although I have love for both of them, lahmacun is easily my favourite. Lahamacun and pide are what you would call street food – cheap, easily accessible and generally pleasing. In fact, it is a rite of passage for anyone visiting Turkey. 7. Jacket potato I mean, a baked jacket potato is good anywhere, right? Turkey is no exception! Locally known as ‘kumpir’, jacket potatoes are beloved within the culture, and you’ll find jacket potato stalls especially in Istanbul with an array of toppings, from pickled vegetables, chili-style gravy, meat, cheese and others. Relatively cheap, they are amazing for quick meals or even a snack. Be sure to try a kumpir at least once when you’re in Turkey. 8. Kokorec Now we’re in the realm of something that is considered an ‘acquired taste’ (which translates to: some people like it, others absolutely can’t brain it). Kokorec is basically grilled chopped innards – this includes hearts, lungs, kidneys of cows or goats – cooked over an open fire with spices, chopped and mixed with some vegetables and stuffed into a toasted baguette. This sandwich is enjoyed by locals, and I find it quite nice albeit a little strong sometimes. It’s one of those traditional delicacies that I feel worth trying if you’re in the Turkey, especially f you’re a fan of innards/tripes. 9. Meze Mezes are basically tapas. They’re small platters of appetizers commonly offered by restaurants, and you enjoy them with some bread before your main plates arrive. There are literally so many mezes to choose from all over the country, some seafood-based, some vegetarian-based and some showcasing local delights of the area. Ask the restaurants for their specials and give them a try! Whichever you choose, be sure to sample a little of each for the experience. My favourites are often the vegetarian ones, like a freshly made eggplant dip, hummus, and artichokes. However, the seafood ones are also often a delight, like a cured mackerel or anchovies in olive oil. Honestly, I don’t think you can ever go wrong with mezes. 10. Cheese It’s Europe after all, so expect a lot of cheese. And a lot of good cheese. As mentioned previously, a good way to sample local cheese would be through ordering a Turkish breakfast which would include some samples of cheese, but otherwise, all your dairy needs can be easily met in the widely available cheese chops, supermarkets and morning markets. Moreover, each region has their own specialty cheese for you to try. If I have to recommend, I’d say go for the goat cheese, which are white as snow, melts like butter and is not too salty. Kars cheese from the region of Kars is also beautifully made. For snacks, try the string cheese, as they are easy to pack, tasty on their own with simple flavours. 11. Kofte & Kebabs Of course it has to be in the list, it’s too obvious! Turkey has had a long history over centuries, and some parts of it involved ‘acquaintances’ with Arabia, through the spread of Islam and culture. As such, you could only expect the food would be involved in this evolution too, and the love of grilled meats in the form of wrapped goodness is no exception. In your life you’ve probably had many koftes and kebabs in various places, and Turkey should be added in that list. Another street food staple, the appeal of koftes and kebabs lie in its simplicity, accessibility and comfort. You can’t go wrong with a meat and bread combo, usually. 12. Sample Dishes at a Lokanta
A Lokanta is basically a mixed rice place. There are dishes on display, sometimes as little as five and as much as thirty different ones, and you can order a portion of whatever you’d like and eat them together. Lokantas are great for the low prices, but it’s also an amazing opportunity to try out different local dishes in one place. In the more outer skirts of the city or small villages, lokantas are usually family run places, and food are cooked home-style, and you know how good mom and pop places usually are…. Dishes usually vary from vegetable-based, meat-based and warming stews, with simple staples like bean soups, delicious rice and local desserts. Most of my adventures in a lokanta involves just randomly pointing at dishes and trying things out. Which is, in my opinion, the best way to eat at a lokanta. Langkawi is an island I’ve been to many times in my life, but have seemed to fail to narrate about here in this blog. Perhaps it’s because it was only recently that I have re-discovered this beautiful island as something other than just any old beach vacation. Recent times have seen it flourish to offer more than just commercial hotels and overcrowded tourist spots, with a more robust café culture, precious experiences and underrated beautiful hidden nooks to explore. In this particular post, I intend to share some of these less popular yet equally intriguing places to see in Langkawi, and if you’re like me, I think you’ll enjoy them as much as I did. Enjoy A Hot Afternoon Chilling at the Temple Tree Café In the peak of midday, there are few things to do in Langkawi. The combination of high humidity and harsh sun means that the only activities you’ll want to do must require a lot of shade and minimal movement. Although there are many cafes scattered around Langkawi for you to spend the afternoon in while enjoying the balmy weather with a cold drink, I’m especially recommending the Temple Tree Café for a few reasons. One, it is not crowded. The café is relatively quiet, manned by friendly servers and located in a large colonial building with excellent ventilation. Two, it is beautiful. There are large shady trees, a dreamy pool and beautifully preserved old Malaysian constructions around the café for you to walk around and wonder. Three, the menu is delightful, spanning from meat to vegetarian options, with cold glasses of whatever you may fancy to soothe you from the heat. Bonus? It’s also a pet-friendly hotel, so if you adore animals like me, you’ll enjoy making friends with some cats and dogs while lazing around large wooden tables under a speedy fan as you finish reading that book you’ve always wanted to finish. Take A Day Tour to Tuba Island Did you know Langkawi is an island of an archipelago of 104 islands? Yeah, me neither. What this means is that there are more to see than just merely the main island. There are local boats going to almost all of the habitable islands, and most of the boats can be taken from the main Kuah port. No pre-bookings are necessary as the boats a frequent, to cater the locals who move around for work (basically the boats serve like a water bus, if you will). Take note that safety isn’t necessarily that paramount, so expect to see no one donning life jackets and locals perched at the edge and top of these small boats, unencumbered. Pulau Tuba is a lovely, small island about 20 mins boat ride away from the Kuah main port of Langkawi. You don’t need more than a day to explore it, and upon arrival you’ll see plenty of motorbikes to rent for the day. Cars are rare on the island, so the roads are safe to ride in, boasting beautiful views of the sea, local villages, vast paddy fields and limestone hills. Suffice to say that you’ll need to know how to ride a motorbike to roam the island. There is a beautiful bridge that takes you across the sea to another island, Dayang Bunting Island. Crossing this bridge in the evening will allow you a beautiful view when the sun is low. There isn’t necessarily that much to see in Dayang Bunting Island itself, so a couple of hours there should be more than enough. While you’re at it, don’t forget to sample Tuba Island’s famous mee udang, or prawn noodles. It’s a brothy concoction of shrimp and noodles in a savoury tangy soup, and there are a couple of different places for you try them, the more famous ones being at Mee Udang Ombak Rindu, and the Lubuk Cempedak area. I ate at both, and thought they were equally good (I mean let’s be honest, if you travel all the way here you might as well try them all). Sample Vegan Delicacies in Langkawi’s Blooming Vegan Scenes I love plant-based meals, and so whenever I stumble upon a great vegan scene I feel compelled to share them with my fellow vegetarian-loving friends! In the past few years Langkawi has begun to grow its own vegan community, and now there are plenty of amazing vegan and vegan-friendly cafes for you to try. Melior Café (ig: @meliorlangkawi) in Kuah makes pretty amazing vegan burgers, even better than most of the ones you find in KL. Membawang Café (ig: @membawang_corner) is a quaint little place that makes amazing vegan tacos and pastas. The Fat Frog (ig: thefatfroglangkawi) is a deliriously hot café located next to a golf course, but makes up for it by having amazing salads, vegan hot meals (I especially loved the tempeh and cauliflower spring rolls) and scrumptious dessert . A notable place I’d also recommend is S’ekar Penang Café (ig: @sekarpinang), a small glasshouse café located in the lush greens of a local kampong. The Nasi Ulam is exquisite, made by herbs grown from its own garden. Its juice of the day is also bright and beautiful, made from delicious greens and fruity notes of whatever the chef feels like that day. And oh, before I forget! The kuih keria? Aptly named the 'Unforgettable Kuih Keria'. it's probably the best I've ever had (it's not on the menu, so ask for it). Visit Furry Friends at the Bon Ton Animal Shelter Why on earth would you visit an animal shelter while on vacation? That’s because this animal shelter is located at Bon Ton café (ig: @bontonresort), a beautiful hidden gem surrounding a small pond, with a menu that boasts delicious desserts and drinks. Bon Ton shares the same owner as the China House in Penang, and if you know China House then you know that you’re up for some good eatin’ where desserts are concerned. The animal shelter was lovingly built next to the café by the owner to cater for the strays and abandoned pets in the island, and you can stroll down the area to meet some loving, friendly furry friends who would love your attention. As of present, Bon Ton is in the middle of constructing an arts center, and so there could only be even more reasons to visit this place in the future. Join Yoga Classes and Sound Bath Experiences Reminiscent to Bali, Langkawi is slowly embracing the appeals of the wellness vibe, offering many yoga classes and sound bathing experiences to try. My favourite ones are the yoga classes at Ambong-Ambong Villas, with an open air yoga studio perched on a high platform overlooking the beautiful blue sea. Most classes are held in the mornings and evenings, and if yoga isn’t your thang, why not try a sound bath? Despite what the name may suggest, no one will be bathing you in public, but it is a session where the instructor will be playing a lot of sound bowls as you lie down on the floor, as the soothing sounds of these Tibetan bowls are said to aid relaxation and a meditative state of mind (don’t scratch it if you haven’t tried it, it really is a unique and interesting experience). Another yoga class to try would be the sunset yoga sessions at the Westin Hotel, where the class is held by the beach as the sun sets in the horizon. Non-residents of the Westin Hotel are allowed to join this class too, so be sure to book a session in advance with the hotel to secure your spot. There is really nothing quite like winding down with some awesome stretches while watching the beautiful sun go down on the quiet beach. Try a Hand at Batik Canting at Mawart Café Remember those times when you had a small voice in your head saying “hey, I should try painting at some point in my life”? Well, here’s an opportunity. Batik Canting is a form of painting, mainly done using liquid hot wax as an outline, and beautiful dyes to paint your fabric. Sounds difficult, but it’s actually a fun activity to attempt. For as cheap as RM60, Mawart Café (ig: @rumahmawart) provides private batik canting sessions where you can create whatever you like and bring them home as your own personal art piece, under a watchful eye of a friendly, professional artist/teacher. It’s fun for kids, and it’s therapeutic for adults – picture a lazy evening of mindless batik canting accompanied by cups of coffee and treats (the studio is attached to a cute café). Best of all, you get to pack your piece and bring them home, perhaps as a new piece of art to commemorate your creativity. Take a Sunset Dip At Tanjung Rhu I know, I know. Tanjung Rhu isn’t exactly a hidden gem. But I do want to let you in on a little secret. As you approach Tanjung Rhu, keep on driving on the main road until you reach the edge of the road where it meets a beach. Park wherever you will, and then walk on along this beach towards the East, and you will come to a beautiful stretch of almost-empty sandy space with a beautiful view and gorgeous waters. There are shady spots where locals sometimes camp, but most of the time when I’m there (and I’ve been there plenty of times) it is almost empty. A recommended time would be nearing sunset, where the sea turns a glimmering surface of orange as you watch the sun set in between the tall peaks of limestone hills emerging from the water. Unlike the main beaches in the West of the island, the water here is a lot more calm and serene, making it perfect for a late evening dip. Bring drinks, a book and some sunblock – this beach is also perfect for quiet isolation and relaxation. Climb the Many Peaks of Langkawi
The ancient, rugged topography of Langkawi means that there plenty of trails for you to hike in and enjoy breathtaking views of the island from an elevation. The more famous trails are the Machincang, Gunung Raya and Kilim trails, with a range of fairly easy to slightly harder difficulty levels. For an easy, quick climb that takes no more than a couple of hours, try the Kilim trails. For a slightly harder but rewarding peak, Machincang mountain is the way to go. Start very early in the morning and you should be able to reach the top by early noon, and feast your eyes on a 360 view of the island and seas. Don’t forget to bring snacks and adequate water, and for the best experience, wear proper hiking shoes as some of the rock formations can be sharp and slippery at times. If you love a good hike, you won’t be disappointed with what Langkawi has to offer. Jordan? Oh, you mean, Petra? That was about all I knew of Jordan before I ever went to see it for myself. My initial intent was to use it as a gateway to access Israel and Palestine, but due to some visa issues (Malaysian passport is not allowed to pass through to Israel, and everything was planned at the last minute so I didn’t have enough time to apply for a temporary entry permission), that idea had to be scratched, and so there was a whole load of time and an entire country of Jordan to explore. And I am so glad I did! Here are some of the things I think you should NOT miss seeing/doing if your ever get the chance to visit this beautiful, historic country. This list is arranged in sequential order, which is great if you wish to turn this into an entire itinerary, moving from North Jordan all the way down South, and then back to Amman to catch your flight back home. Renting a car is imperative to make the most out of the country, as the public transportation system isn’t the most efficient here. 1. See The Roman Monuments in Jerash Located about an hour away from the capital Amman, Jerash has the second-most well-preserved Roman ruins after Italy. It’s a great place to start your exploration, as it is located North of the country, and it lets you dive into an amazing Roman complex that paints a picture on what life was like back in the day. You can cover the complex in a day, but I went there twice, and arriving there as early as it opens gives you an advantage because it would be mostly empty. The complex consists of the Temple of Zeus, the Temple of Artemis, 2 amphitheatres, beautiful ancient roads with tall pillars, an old bath and a beautiful fountain, to name a few. As you climb up the hills to the temples you might ponder on how it is that your fitness resolutions never materialised, but the views would be worth it. 2. Visit the old Ajloun Castle for a Beautiful View The fact that Jordan is literally next to Palestine and Israel means that it is deeply affiliated with the history of the wars of the Holy Land. One of such is the War of the Crusaders, and the monuments and remains are everywhere around the country. Ajloun Castle is definitely one of the best preserved ones, propped right in top of a hill that can be seen from miles away. Built by Sultan Saladdin of the Ayyubis (you might remember him from the movie Kingdom of Heaven), it served as a strategic military fort against the Crusaders in the 12th Century. Take your time to check out the artillery rooms to the rooftop views, where on a clear day, you would be able to see Jerusalem in the distance. The drive is a beautiful one, going uphill across acres of olive trees, so be sure to spend at least half a day here. 3. Take a Dip in the Dead Sea First of all, the Dead Sea isn’t even a sea. It’s a lake. A very salty lake. In fact, the salt content is 10 times higher than normal sea water. Swimming in the Dead Sea is certainly an experience I would never forget. You really do float, just as what they raved about all over the internet! You can even read a book quite comfortably in it. However, if you do have an external wound, it would sting like a bitch. The Dead Sea waters and minerals are medicinal, and you can relax by the sea while slathering yourself with the mud, while hoping that after the wash-off you’d look like Meghan Fox. The West Bank is in full view, and although some parts of the beach is sandy, a lot of them are made of salt hydrates, which means they are sharp and will split your feet open if you’re not careful. I would recommend spending a couple of days here at least, so that you could really enjoy the waters and view. 4. Tread Where The Dinosaurs Walked at Wadi Mujib You gotta take time to drive along the Dead Sea coast, not only for the sweeping views, but also because there are a lot of things to see. Take the Wadi Mujib, for example. Mentioned in the Bible, it is a beautiful canyon that cuts through high sandstone walls, with a lovely creek passing right through. During the warmer months the entire trek is open so that your could explore the gorge, the cool waters a relief against the Arabian sunshine. This canyon is also pre-historic - traces of dinosaurs using this place as a walkway had been found! Aside from Wadi Mujib, keep your eyes open to other beautiful attractions around the coastline, like view points, hidden waterfalls and public beaches. 6. Pretend You’re Indiana Jones at Petra I’ll put up a different post on Petra because there is so much to share, but here I’ll tell you these things; you need at least 2 days to fully appreciate it, you should be at least moderately fit to climb up the sandstone hills, you should really do the night tour, and bring a sandwich. 7. Take a Jeep to Explore the Valley of the Moon Wadi Rum, the desert South of Jordan, is also dubbed the ‘Valley of the Moon’ due to its landscape that looks other-wordly. You might have actually seen it before, you know. Star Wars? The Martian? Aladdin? They were all filmed in this desert. This magnificent place is just a vast orange land, with jagged rock formations creating small valleys with wild camels galloping around. It is especially beautiful at sunset, when the light turns the entire place bright orange. Driving across the desert requires a specific jeep, which you can rent online or at the reception desk of any nearby campsite. You should note that Wadi Rum is extremely cold during winter, and the temperature will plummet after sundown. An extra treat? Spend a night or two with the Arab Bedouins in a nomadic-style desert tent, and appreciate how these amazing people live out here for generations. 8. Watch the Desert Sunrise in Bed, in a See-Through Glamping Tent Speaking of tents. What most camp sites also provide is an experience of ‘glamping’ in a see-through tent. It’s a Mars-like round tent with a transparent side of the wall, and what this means is that you can watch the sunset/sunrise in the comforts of your own room, and let’s not forget the stargazing! This is especially important during winter, because who wants to die of hypothermia from watching the night sky? It’s certainly more pricey than the regular tents, but boy oh boy is it worth it. I stayed at a camp called Hasan Zawaideh Camp, and I loved it. They even have a fancy nomadic tea room for you to hang out in, with a fireplace, floor-to-ceiling carpets and sisha. The breakfast and dinner spread is also pretty good. 9. Eat Slow Cooked Goat Cooked in Sand in the Middle of the Desert I have a strange bucket list. One of the things in the bucket list was eating a goat that is cooked in the sand in the middle of the desert by desert nomads. Where did I get this idea, you asked? From an Anthony Bourdain TV show. As a young girl, that image of Anthony huddled with a group of nomads under the starry night sky in the middle of a vast desert while gnawing on the bones of a well-cooked goat became the epitome of my visualisation of an adventure. And guess what? I finally ticked this one off the list in Wadi Rum, Jordan. You can ask your host if this is possible (it usually is, although you’ll have to pay), and before dinner time be sure to show up early and ask the cook if you can see the unveiling of the meat from the ground (you usually can). Was the goat as good as I had imagined it all these years? Yes, my friend, yes. The animal is cooked low and slow in the heat of the charcoal and sand for almost an entire day, mildly spiced and served with roasted vegetables, onions and garlic. Perfect for a cold night in the desert. Thank you, Anthony Bourdain, for the inspiration. 10. Chill in Cafes by the Red Sea in Aqaba One of the southmost cities of Jordan, Aqaba, is well worth a visit, if only for just a half-day. It’s where the country meets the Red Sea, a sea mentioned in both the Bible and the Quran, and you’re probably most familiar with it through the story of how Moses parted the Red Sea in order to flee with the rest of the Israelis from the hands of Pharoah. From the coastline of the sea, you can see 3 different nations - Jordan, Egypt and Israel. Aqaba itself is a very laid-back seaside town, with a beautiful waterfront boasting with cafes and restaurants, and bustling roads lined with small shops worth a visit. Things are generally cheaper here than the rest of the country thanks to its tax-free appeal, so it’s a good place to get some local souvenirs or splurge a little. Otherwise, take time to sit by the pier and enjoy a cuppa with a view in one of the pretty cafes. 11. Immerse Yourself in History at Madaba As you make your way up to the North of Jordan again, re-route yourself through the highway that will pass through Madaba. It’s a small city in the middle of Jordan, but mighty when it comes to its history. The Greek Orthodox church in the city currently preserves the biggest known early map of the Holy Land, made completely from tiny mosaics. It’s amazing to observe the details of this map, and how life was depicted like back in the day. Madaba is also well-known in the Islamic history as the location for the Battle of Mu’tah, where the Islamic army led by the Prophet Muhammad battled the Romans, with 3 of his closest companions perished. Their tombs are located in the city. Madaba is also close to Mount Nebo, where biblical accounts claim Prophet Moses climbed and saw the Promised Land for the first time. Of course, you can see it too from the top of the mountain. On a clear day, you’ll be able to view as far as Jerusalem and Ramallah, and it’s amazing to put it all into perspective - so many stories of remarkable people in the holy books took place around this area, as well as centuries of wars and political turmoil. It is worth to spend at least a day or so in and around the city. 12. Watch a City Sunset In Amman Amman, the capital city of Jordan, is certainly a place of its own. There’s the citadel for you to see, perched on top of the hill overlooking the entire population, and also the place where Coldplay launched their album last year via a live streaming performance from that very same citadel. Amman has the vibe of a middle eastern city, quiet, low-key, and beige-coloured, but at the same time some parts of it, like Jafra and Sweifieh Village, exhibits a lot of globalisation, in terms of food, fashion and even culture. A nice thing to do would be to find a rooftop cafe (there are plenty in the city, such as the ones near the as-Shams cafe area), and watch the sunset with a drink or a plate of falafels/hummus. The way the dark washes over the brown buildings and the blue skies is a nice way to wrap up your entire Jordanian adventure. It’s definitely worth renting a car for your travels in Jordan, as public transport isn’t the most efficient here. On the other hand, local Jordanians are warm, friendly and so helpful. I’ve had people give me free food, invite me to their homes for tea and gave wonderful recommendations over what to do and where to go.
ProTip: Get the Jordan pass, which you can buy online and gives you access to most historical sites around the country. It’s much more value for money than buying tickets per-entry to everything. It was freezing cold while we stood in the dark in what seemed like was the middle of nowhere, and it was hard to be still in the freezing temperatures while waiting for the hot air balloon to be set up. The guy who drove us there took out a foldable table and set up a small snacking center with hot drinks, and the steam coming out of the cups was like a little piece of heavenly relief - it was -1 degrees at 6.30 am, and this was Cappadocia, Turkey. In the summer this place would be swarming with tourists. I’ve never witnessed it, but the number of shops and restaurants crammed in the little village of Goreme where I was staying at definitely indicated an anticipation of a massive pilgrimage – they have more Asian restaurants than Istanbul did, for example. But in winter, it becomes the complete opposite. I walked down the street for a few blocks and only bumped into 3 other people. There were hardly anyone at the restaurants. There were no queues at the museum. The hot air balloon was 65 euros less than the usual price. The Whirling Dervish tickets for 25 euros? I got it for free. Cappadocia is an amazing place to be at any time of the year, but in winter, it gives off a different kind of charm. It’s relatively arid, with volcanic tuffs forming strange-looking peaks and formations that look like fairytale chimneys, but these are amplified when you’ve got snowfall. The entire place begins to look like a scene right out of Disney, and if there is ever a time when you get a sudden urge to sing out a little musical, this is the time and place to do so. The small houses and buildings are covered in white, the rocky brown peaks are sprinkled with white dust, the snow on the ground are tinted purple from the falling berries off the trees, and the horse ranches were just something else – picture these beautiful creatures prancing around with the playful dogs in snowy fields as far as your eyes can see. It’s the postcard-picture ideal of serenity. During low seasons the horseback rides are only 30 euros for 2 hours, whereas in the summer, it only gets you an hour. The only downside to being here in winter is that the weather is more unpredictable. Sometimes, the hot air balloons are cancelled due to the strong winds or heavy snowfall. I was lucky that my scheduled ride went on as planned. There was no snow that day, and as we escalated above the hills I saw the horizon light up with the emergence of the sun as the day began – to say it was heavenly is an understatement. There is a specific effect, perhaps only found in this part of the world where the sunshine bathes the arid landscape with an orange tint, and you’re high up enough to see everything, but low enough to spot a dog yapping happily at your large balloon, its tail wagging. But of course natural beauty isn’t the only thing that’s magical around here in the winter. It’s also the people. The absence of touristy crowds also means that the locals are more in their natural element. The elderly walks to and from the mosques, having laughing conversations on the benches by the roadside, the kids walk to school in groups, and the weekly market only has local attendees, where everyone finds you as interesting as the new oranges that are in season. Local cheeses are sold in large barrels cheaply, and you can try olives and fresh fruits and no one would harass you buy anything. Honey and nuts are a local specialty here if you’re thinking of getting some home. Otherwise, sit at the quiet cafes and enjoy some hot chocolate while watching the snow fall quietly on the pavements – a meal or two wouldn’t be totally inappropriate. In which case, I’d suggest the Old Cappadocia Restaurant for its stone oven bread and pide (a type of Turkish pizza). Or maybe some roasted eggplants topped with stewed tomatoes, with some testi kebabi cooked in small clay potteries. And why not some homemade baklavas for dessert? Winter in Cappadocia is a definitely a dreamy affair. I’d do it all over again. Note: You can get to Cappodocia via bus or an airplane. The latter is more time-efficient, and internal flights are pretty cheap (around rm200 return). The flights land in either Keyseri or Nevsehir, and from there you can take a shuttle bus that will cost 7 euros each way to your hotel in the town center of Gerome.
Sometimes when I think about this particular hike, I think that I might be dreaming. Was I really there? Did I really do it? Unlike the Annapurna Base Camp hike that I did last year, I hardly trained or planned for this one. First of all, I’ve never even heard of Rakaposhi Base Camp until right before I went to Pakistan (I mean, have you?). Secondly, because it isn’t popular, there weren’t many reviews of the hike, so it was easy to underestimate it. And underestimate it I did. In the end, I felt that it was tougher than Annapurna Base Camp, in terms of intensity. Rakaposhi Mountain is the 27th highest mountain in the world, mostly known for its exceptional rise from an otherwise normal local terrain (translation: steep). It rises 5900 meters in only an 11.2 km horizontal distance from the Hunza-Nagar River. The Rakaposhi Base Camp is at 3500 meters, and the plan was to climb up, and then back down, all in an entire day (tip: don’t, unless you’re prepped for it.) because of time constraints. I would divide the entire climb up into 4 different legs. The first leg begins from Minapin Village, which is the starting point of the hiking route. Minapin Village is a quaint population within the Nagar Valley, and the locals there are mostly farmers who work the lands up to the mountains. My friends and I met a nice guy from the village called Hussein, whom, while in the midst of applying for college, was bored to death and wanted to come with us on the hike. He claimed that he goes up there at least once a year for fun (what??) with his friends anyway. As soon as you get to the edge of the village near a hydroplant, the track instantly starts climbing in a zigzag pattern. We started very early in the morning, and it was normal to be climbing this part of the terrain with other locals with donkeys as a lot of them would be headed up to their hillside farms to work for the day. An old guy with normal shoes and a donkey surpassed me and disappeared in a matter of minutes without so much of looking even slightly breathless, so you can understand how that messed with my self-esteem a little. At this point your adrenaline wouldn’t have kicked in yet, so the climb will be a little painful. The second leg is a lot easier than the first one. The incline reduces, and you come to nice forested area with beautiful greens and small rivers. On my climbing day there was absolutely no other hiker on these tracks except for myself, two other friends, Hussein and another Australian climber. One of the best things about this climb is that due to its unpopularity, you get the place all to yourself. During this leg of the hike, you’ll come across a small village made of ragged stones and overlooking the mountain ranges. I loved the place – it reminded me of scenes from the Vikings TV Show for some reason. Eventually you’ll walk out of the forested area and into a new territory – vast green fields and a sharp incline of the tracks. You’ll also begin seeing glimpses of the Minapin Glacier. I was so excited to see it, but this is also how you know the second leg of the hike is ending and the next few hours is going to be a bitch (excuse my French). The third leg of the hike is the hardest for me. The ground was unconsolidated, which meant that I had to use more energy to climb, and it was easy to slip and fall on your butt (which I did, twice. The second one hurt). The area was also a lot more open, and the wind and sun made it more challenging. In the spirit of sharing, I must also state that I was on my period, and this caused me to feel tired and dehydrated fairly quickly – I found myself needing more breaks, and needing more snacks. The gradual climb will eventually let you come to a meadow with a beautiful trail and beautiful alpine flowers, and the peak of the Rakaposhi Mountain will be very visible. It was so beautiful I forgot all about my lethargy and raced up to the top. And once you’re at the top of that trail, hold your breath, people. You’re about to see one of the most beautiful sights you would ever lay eyes on – miles and miles of white-as-sheet glacier set at the bottom of an enormous snowy mountain range, the glaciers peeking out as though they were frozen large ice waves. And absolutely no White Walker in sight. Like I’ve said before, one of the best treats of this Base Camp is that it is absolutely void with people, so you get a stunning scenery with zero Insta-star posing for 500 shots at the viewpoints for, you know, ‘content’. Now you can choose to stop here. You can. In fact, most people would. But what you can also do is continue to the fourth leg of the hike – the trail past the Base Camp, and onto the glacier. Yes, you’ve seen the ice sheet, now why not be on it? Follow the trail which will take you to the Base Camp grounds (a secluded area with a camping site, a small building, a dodgy toilet and a small creek), and carry on beyond it towards the direction of the glacier. We had to climb up and down some large rubbles and it was quite exhausting especially after an entire day hiking, but once I got on top of the glacier it felt worth it. Cold ice water streams also meant you can refill your drinking bottles, and while doing so I pictured myself in an Evian ad. If you plan to go back down on the same day, you should begin at the latest around 3pm. This would allow you to reduce the time hiking in the dark, especially through the third leg of the hike where the descend is steep and the grounds are lose, which would be dangerous. You don’t want to be the annoying tourist that caused the entire Minapin village to have to go out and rescue you (and this has happened before, according to locals). Based on my personal experience these would be my main tips (applicable only if you’re an average amateur hiker);
I dozed off immediately after I got into the car that was supposed to take me from Islamabad to Hunza Valley. I think it was the lunch that got me so drowsy – yet another helping of Biryani, a mound of rice with secret pieces of chicken hidden within it, that made me feel instantly doozy. I think I slept for a good hour, but given that the entire ride will take a whole day, it didn’t matter so much. When I woke up, Islamabad had disappeared. What was before my eyes was now glimpses of the Pakistan highlands – vast, mountainous, majestic. This was the view I had from the car for the next 22 hours. Hunza Valley's view from Baltit Fort, a must-visit if you want to more about the valley's history and take in the amazing views from an elevation Local shepherds with their herds - some are young kids who looked like they're pros already That side of the world has always felt very intriguing for me. You know, ‘that side’. Not quite middle-eastern, at the foot of the most prominent mountain ranges on earth, and despite the bad-rep they always get from the media, remains mysterious and not quite well-known. Wasn’t it infamous for a Taliban-related attack not so long ago? Some Western news mass-generalized it as the place where women are oppressed – I never easily believe anything, so part of me wanted to go because I wanted to see this place for myself and feed my own curiosity. Hunza Valley is located in Northern Pakistan. On Google Map it looks like a tiny dot of a place sandwiched between thousands of miles of snowy mountain ranges. To get there, I had to first get myself to Islamabad. From Islamabad, I had a few options – take the 1 hour flight to Gilgit, and then a taxi from Gilgit to Hunza Valley, take the public bus (a popular one is faisalmovers.com) to Gilgit, and cab my way to Hunza Valley as well, or rent a car with a driver, who will drive me right to the doorsteps of the hotel. I took the last option, and shared the fare with three other guys. After all, nothing says nuts like sharing a car with a non-English speaking driver and another stranger for a drive that takes a long time. Prepare copies of your passport because there will be a lot of military check points along the way. You’ll also be required to put up a night somewhere because the check point gates are closed after 5pm. For more info on traveling by road to North Pakistan, see here. The end of summer is the season for apples, apricots and pears Locals would offer you fruits from their farms for free Passu Glacier Gilgit is one of the main towns in the North and everything else pretty much branches out from there. I stayed at Karimabad, which was a smaller town about 1 hour drive from Gilgit, at the heart of Hunza Valley. And let me just say this first and foremost – Hunza Valley is perhaps one of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life, if not the most. No, I’m not overselling it. Tiny villages dot the area, surrounded by tall snow-capped mountain ranges everywhere you look. It feels like a place so isolated with its beauty remaining a huge secret. The people are so chill and friendly, no one wants to scam you and everyone wants to help you. The average lifespan here is around 95 years, and you can easily see why by looking at the lifestyle here. The land is so fertile and there are apple trees, apricot trees, peaches, pears, walnuts in everybody’s lawns, and you’re welcomed to help yourselves to as much as you want. I had my first taste of yak meat, which tasted strong and meaty, in local dishes comprising a lot of fat and meat, a common choice in this cold region. To best engross yourself in the area, take a nice long walk in the villages and watch people go about their daily routines, try local snacks, eat some fruits under the trees, and watch the sun set behind the mountains. If you're not having at least one cup of chai per day, dammit you're not doing it right! Attabad Lake with its blue waters, sourced directly by the glaciers Mr Sultan, our jeep driver, with the jeep that took us places To get the most out of Hunza Valley and its surroundings, you need to get a jeep with a driver. For the entire day you can get a rate of about USD40, and explore some sights at your own leisure. Horpar Valley is a place not to be missed, a small village reachable through an insane narrow road right next to gut-wrenching cliffs. There is a viewpoint in the village where you can get unspoiled views of the Horpar Glacier. It’s the fastest moving glacier in the world, at 5cm/day. Attabad Lake is also worth a visit, an eerie beautiful blue lake fed by the glacier water that resulted from a massive avalanche that drowned a highway and a village, killing 11 people. Passu is a great little area where you can soak your sights on the amazing Cathedral or Cone Mountain – a ragged mountain range that looks like a giant crown, and driving in and between these places is an experience by itself. Standing on the seats of my jeep and just feeling the rush of the wind through me with the sunshine in my face and looking across to the vast, euphoric scenery made me feel like I was in a scene of a movie about a girl who was on a quest for the adventure of a lifetime. It was liberating and joyous, a feeling that is hard to explain. Walk around the villages, but wear proper shoes though. The pavements are mostly inclined. Hunza Valley at night If you’re looking for something more physical, like I always do when I’m traveling (I hate the whole sit-in-a-car-and-get-down-only-to-take-pictures motion), then boy do I have recommendations for you. I went hiking to the Rakopashi Base Camp, details of which you can read HERE. It’s not for the faint hearted but I promise you it is absolutely worth it. I also went to Fairy Meadows, arguably one the more famous trails in North Pakistan (also infamous: in 2010 11 people were shot here by the Taliban). It takes 2 hours of Jeep Ride through the second most dangerous road in the world (yep) and an additional 2-hour horse ride or 3-hour hike to get there. But once you do, it’s just extremely breathtaking. The entire meadow oversees Nagar Parbat, one of the highest mountains in the world. Need I say more? Rakaposhi Base Camp The Jeep road up to Fairy Meadows is the second most dangerous road in the world, and rightfully so. One with Nagar Prabat mountain, shot in Fairy Meadows. Nagar Prabat is one of the highest mountains in the world. Horseback riding for about 2 hours to reach Fairy Meadows If you ask me, I’ll tell you this; North Pakistan is extremely underrated. A local told me that once, the place was a bustling tourist area, but after 9/11 the whole industry collapsed and with it, the economy of the locals. These days North Pakistan is largely safe. You’ll see many military check points and a lot of police and soldiers around, but it’s just a safety measure to ensure that what happened many years ago will not occur again. If you manage to brave the roads, the unpredictable public transport and the occasional “sorry there’s no electricity or hot shower because the generator went off throughout the entire village”, then I can almost guarantee you that Pakistan will be the voyage to remember. Definitely one for the books. A sample of the Northern cuisine, top and clockwise - a variation of the potato salad with coriander, chilis and onions, local bread stuffed with yak meat, yak meat cooked in yoghurt, spices, coriander and soaked bread, and local cheese sandwiched between local bread. Often you'll see dishes like this chickpea curry. Locals have a knack of using simple ingredients like lentils, beans and veg and turning them into delicious simple curries to be dipped with warm local bread. Dumplings stuffed with minced meat. As you get closer to the Chinese border you begin to see influences in the local dishes. What To Eat: the Pakistani palette is a must-try! I had one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever eaten here, called Chicken Karahi – chicken pieces cooked in spices and yoghurt until the meat falls off the bone and you mop up all the sauce with some homemade bread. Yak meat is also worth a try in the Northern regions, commonly prepared with a lot of cheese and bread. There are also endless possibilities when it comes to beans, lentils and veggies, mostly cooked in a version of local curry. These are absolutely amazing with hot, fresh parathas. And please, please, please do not forget to indulge yourself with a tall glass of freshly blended apricot juice. They literally go out to the lawn and pick out the fruits from a tree and chuck them into a blender - it doesn't get any fresher than that.
If you’ve never been to Hawaii, then the Hawaii that you’d know (that is, through movies, music and pictures), is most probably of the Oahu Island. Hawaii is an archipelago of islands, and Oahu is perhaps the most famous one yet, home to Honolulu, the capital city of Hawaii. A popular vacation spot for famous people and the usual filming location for various Hollywood movies has blossomed the island into a busy, well-developed and touristy place for everyone to enjoy. Contrary to Big Island, Hawaii that you could read about here, Oahu is a much more modern take on what it means to have an island adventure. Here are some of the things you can look forward to if/when you visit Oahu, Hawaii. 1. Hang out at Waikiki Beach and its beach city strip Look, if you didn’t check out Waikiki, were you even in Oahu? If the Beach Boys sang about it, then there has to be a reason for its hype. The beach city strip has everything to offer, from the hotels, restaurants, shopping, yoga studios and bars, all set along the wide, surfing-friendly Waikiki beach. There’s even a Tesla showroom, guys. Certainly overcrowded with tourists, but the upside is you can pretty much everything in one place. I particularly enjoyed the late evenings here, as you get to chill by the beach while watching surfers emerge around the large rolling waves, and as the sun set you get the feel of the city in a whole different light. Waikiki - A surfer's paradise, but you can also go to the North Shore to see more surfing action The beachside city strip is well developed and has something for everyone 2. Check out famous movie sets Jurassic Park. 50 First Dates. Lost. Forgetting Sarah Marshall. Hawaii Five-O. These are only some of the few of our beloved movies and shows shot here in Oahu. Most of these are around the Northern area of the island near Kauai Ranch, where the landscape is much more scenic, giving a faraway-in-a-distant-island vibe. I particularly enjoyed a visit to Hukilau Cafe from 50 First Dates, arguably one my favourite rom-coms. Some of the locations require an entrance fee, but if you ask me, you’d enjoy the free ones just as much. Hukilau Cafe, 50 First Dates Forgetting Sarah Marshall filming location Perhaps my real glimpse into Oahu is from the TV show 'Lost' 3. Go for a hike at its many, many nature trails There are no less than 20 official hiking trails in Oahu, thanks to its rugged, volcanic terrains. They are not as vast as the ones you’d find in the Volcano National Park in Big Island, but they’ll provide sweeping views of the island. One of the more popular ones is the Diamond Head trail, and easy climb that will reward you with a beautiful view of Waikiki. There is even an old lighthouse at the top. Aside from hikes, the island also has various other physical activities, such as diving, paragliding, surfing, sky diving and lots more. A quick visit to one of the island’s many information centers will give you more than enough reference for the things you would like to do. The Diamond Head hiking trail 4. Have a Hawaiian gastronomic experience Now we’re talking! Brace yourself for some good old American food fiesta, with a dash of tropical zest of Hawaii. Something that is rather popular here and seems to have garnered a cult of its own is the garlic shrimp movement. Sold in food trucks everywhere, they are basically garlicky, juice fat shrimps cooked in butter and served with either fries or rice. The most famous of them all is Giovanni’s Garlic Shrimp, located near the North Shore. You’ll find it easily by spotting the truck with the longest queue. They are certainly worth the hype for me. Aside from this, other delicacies you should not miss is Hawaiian Haupia pie, a delicious coconut-based cream pie, pancakes at iHop (everywhere in the US actually, but hey, the pancakes make this place worth a mention), and the Hula chicken, which is a roast chicken variation marinated in pineapple juice. I would also like to make a special shout out to a place called Grylt, where I had the best Tuna wrap in my life. The tuna was perfectly seared so it was still juicy and red in the middle, and the whole combo was just something I would remember in a long, long time. Giovanni's garlic shrimp - we sampled a couple of food trucks, and this is probably the best The Haupia Cream Pie can be found in a lot of places, but this is the most popular Perfect seared tuna wrap with chimchurri in a wrap sprinkled with salt flakes 5. Bask in some Hawaiian history Hey, have you heard of Pearl Harbour? It’s here on this island, and you’d miss out if you don’t check it out and enjoy the free boat tour around the place of the infamous Japanese attack during the height of the World War. You might also catch a distant sound of Faith Hill’s ‘There You’ll Be’ playing somewhere in the background (ok I’m kidding). But the island’s history is so much more than just the World War 2. The Hawaiian history dates back way beyond that, and during the height of the Polynesian civilisation, there were civil wars between the tribes and the rise and fall of Hawaiian royalties to immerse yourself in. Be sure to get to know some of them, as they would give you a much better appreciation of the archipelago and the story of its people. You can find a lot of historical sites around the island It's a different feel without Ben Affleck and Josh Hartnett 6. Shop at Waikele Premium Outlets
Shopping is my least favourite thing to do when travelling. But I suppose if there is giant factory outlet with a 70% discount on all items, you’d be a fool to not take advantage of it. Waikele Premium Outlets is so huge that it is impossible to cover in a single day, so much so that it has a map so you won’t get lost or pee on yourself from not being able to locate the nearest lavatory. Hanging out here is a great option especially if it's raining outside, as much of everything else to do around the island is outdoorsy. What do you think of when you think of Hawaii? I’ll start – I think of surfer dudes. Incessant music from the Beach Boys playing at every corner of the beach city. Coconut bras. Overtanned tourists walking about in ridiculous colourful outfits that are supposed to make them look ‘tropical’ (and coming from a tropical country myself, this is NOT how we dress). Majestic volcanic eruptions. Endless flows of seafood in every restaurant you go to. Well, some of them are true. The National Park, a must-go if you're in Big Island It turns out that a good number of people do not know that ‘Hawaii’ is actually a cluster of islands. That is to say, you’d need to be specific to which island you’re going if you’re going there. Most airlines would go to Oahu, arguably the most famous island of the whole lot. You can take inter-island flights to move to the rest of the islands. Ferries seem like an invalid option. View at Highway 250 So which island should you go to? In this particular post I would be writing about the Big Island, the largest of the chain of Hawaiian archipelago. It is the Hawai’i. It’s pretty safe to say that a common main reason one would choose this island as opposed to the more popular Honolulu is for the Volcano National Park. The island still has active volcanoes, and the last eruption occurred in May 2018. If you’re dying to see lava flows as far as your eyes could see (and beyond!), this is the place to be. A different planet? Kalapana Lava Field, last eruption in 2018 There are many spots that you could go to and see volcanic fields (after all, it’s an island made from volcanic eruptions, so the remnants are literally everywhere), but a particular spot worth mentioning would be the Kilauea Lava Field. It’s a large, vast grey space of frozen basaltic flows, and you can spend ages there marvelling at the frozen pillowy structures and the curves of the uneven surface of shiny, hardened magma, that would make you feel as though you’re on a different planet. Is it Earth? Is it Mars? It’s an exhilarating feeling to be right in the middle of it. It would be nice if you could take an aerial shot of the whole deposit using a drone, but it gets very windy around here so be warned. Waterfalls drape through the uneven structures of volcanic deposits Highway 250 The Big Island is a properly planned tourist attraction, so there are plenty of routes and trails and stops for you to enjoy the most out of this beautiful volcanic island – Waipio Valley lookout, Palolo Valley lookout, and so many others especially if you’re within the National Park area. However, as always, I’d say that some of the gems are not as loudly advertised as others. For example, the drive along Highway 250 of the island might actually be one of the most scenic drives you would ever have had. You’ll pass volcanic landscapes from a high viewpoint (great for pictures), gorgeous private homes set among the lush greens growing from the fertile soil, sakura trees (yes! Sakura trees) lining the pavement that walks up to a gorgeous old church, rainbows at the edge of fields, and vast green landscapes that spreads out until the sea meets the earth. I’d recommend driving around here in the late evening, when the sunshine is the right colour and the clouds hang low so that you could see the top of Mount Mauna Kea. So many volcanic craters, Mauna Kea Sunset At Mauna Kea Speaking of Mauna Kea, did you know that it snows on the island? Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano, but with its peak at more than 4200 meters (which you can hike up to, by the way), it’s common to snow around the mountain during the colder seasons. That being said, you’d be smart to visit the Big Island with a proper jacket if you plan to visit high elevation sites such as this. Mauna Kea is also considered to be one of the best spots in the world for astronomical evaluation, due to its stable airflow and location. There are about eleven telescopes housed here, and there is even a center owned by NASA where you could go and check out or purchase cool astronomical merchandise which also includes space food that real astronomers consume when in space (alright, fine. I might have bought a bunch to take home. So what? We all know I won’t be going to space any time soon, and I want a taste of it). Pohoiki Beach, a young beach of 8 months old (formed during lava flow) Road completely blocked by a recent lava flow But of course let’s not forget the beaches. This is Hawaii after all. It would be a crime to not speak about the seaside where the volcanic sands meet the Pacific Ocean. It isn’t hard to find a private beach where no one is bothering you, with only the sounds of waves and the wind rustling through the trees. I wouldn’t need to describe this at all – we all know the paradise that is the sandy haven with the sun in your face and the frothy seawater bubbling around your feet. But an interesting beach here would be the youngest one of all. The Pohoiki Beach, formed only 7 months ago today, is a black sand beach, and here you would see how the lava flow completely covered the old beach and formed a new one, at the same time trapping some pools of sea water into little natural swimming pools. At the parking lot of the beach you’ll see something just as fascinating – a lava flow had crossed a large road, and just like that, the road is blocked and no longer in use. In a weird way, it kind of paints the façade that everything on the island is temporary. Forever changing. Forever shifting according to eruptions that are frequent. Local avo, halved, salted, drizzled with Hawaiian lemon juice (sweeter), enjoyed. In the spirit of honesty, I wish I could say that dining on the Big Island is a major gastronomic affair. However, it seems like not even a place like Hawaii was able to escape the junk/fast food avalanche that it America. The popular food around the island are mostly the fast food chains, with these spots being jam packed with people during lunch and dinner hours. ‘Local’ food comprises of immigrant food – Chinese takeouts, Mexican taco joints, maseladas (Portuguese donuts) and Italian restaurants. For a country that seemed to be constantly on the verge of immigrant-rights issues, it sure does take a lot from these different cultures to make it its own. The local produce are, however, wonderful to sample. The island has its own local macadamia farms, and in return macadamia milk is something you should definitely try here. I daresay that it rivals as perhaps the best nut-based milk I’ve ever tasted. If you visit the morning markets you’d see an array of avocados of all shapes and sizes. Enjoy one simply dashed with some salt and a good drizzle of olive oil to really taste its difference from your usual, generic imported avocados in grocery stores. So is the Big Island more than just a beach paradise? You bet it is. If you’re looking to go, be prepared with more than just your pair of coconut bra and stereotyped Bermuda pants.
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