​Jordan? Oh, you mean, Petra? That was about all I knew of Jordan before I ever went to see it for myself. My initial intent was to use it as a gateway to access Israel and Palestine, but due to some visa issues (Malaysian passport is not allowed to pass through to Israel, and everything was planned at the last minute so I didn’t have enough time to apply for a temporary entry permission), that idea had to be scratched, and so there was a whole load of time and an entire country of Jordan to explore. And I am so glad I did! Here are some of the things I think you should NOT miss seeing/doing if your ever get the chance to visit this beautiful, historic country. This list is arranged in sequential order, which is great if you wish to turn this into an entire itinerary, moving from North Jordan all the way down South, and then back to Amman to catch your flight back home. Renting a car is imperative to make the most out of the country, as the public transportation system isn’t the most efficient here.

1. See The Roman Monuments in Jerash
Located about an hour away from the capital Amman, Jerash has the second-most well-preserved Roman ruins after Italy. It’s a great place to start your exploration, as it is located North of the country, and it lets you dive into an amazing Roman complex that paints a picture on what life was like back in the day. You can cover the complex in a day, but I went there twice, and arriving there as early as it opens gives you an advantage because it would be mostly empty. The complex consists of the Temple of Zeus, the Temple of Artemis, 2 amphitheatres, beautiful ancient roads with tall pillars, an old bath and a beautiful fountain, to name a few. As you climb up the hills to the temples you might ponder on how it is that your fitness resolutions never materialised, but the views would be worth it.

2. Visit the old Ajloun Castle for a Beautiful View
The fact that Jordan is literally next to Palestine and Israel means that it is deeply affiliated with the history of the wars of the Holy Land. One of such is the War of the Crusaders, and the monuments and remains are everywhere around the country. Ajloun Castle is definitely one of the best preserved ones, propped right in top of a hill that can be seen from miles away. Built by Sultan Saladdin of the Ayyubis (you might remember him from the movie Kingdom of Heaven), it served as a strategic military fort against the Crusaders in the 12th Century. Take your time to check out the artillery rooms to the rooftop views, where on a clear day, you would be able to see Jerusalem in the distance. The drive is a beautiful one, going uphill across acres of olive trees, so be sure to spend at least half a day here.

3. Take a Dip in the Dead Sea
First of all, the Dead Sea isn’t even a sea. It’s a lake. A very salty lake. In fact, the salt content is 10 times higher than normal sea water. Swimming in the Dead Sea is certainly an experience I would never forget. You really do float, just as what they raved about all over the internet! You can even read a book quite comfortably in it. However, if you do have an external wound, it would sting like a bitch. The Dead Sea waters and minerals are medicinal, and you can relax by the sea while slathering yourself with the mud, while hoping that after the wash-off you’d look like Meghan Fox. The West Bank is in full view, and although some parts of the beach is sandy, a lot of them are made of salt hydrates, which means they are sharp and will split your feet open if you’re not careful. I would recommend spending a couple of days here at least, so that you could really enjoy the waters and view.

4. Tread Where The Dinosaurs Walked at Wadi Mujib
You gotta take time to drive along the Dead Sea coast, not only for the sweeping views, but also because there are a lot of things to see. Take the Wadi Mujib, for example. Mentioned in the Bible, it is a beautiful canyon that cuts through high sandstone walls, with a lovely creek passing right through. During the warmer months the entire trek is open so that your could explore the gorge, the cool waters a relief against the Arabian sunshine. This canyon is also pre-historic - traces of dinosaurs using this place as a walkway had been found!
Aside from Wadi Mujib, keep your eyes open to other beautiful attractions around the coastline, like view points, hidden waterfalls and public beaches.

6. Pretend You’re Indiana Jones at Petra
I’ll put up a different post on Petra because there is so much to share, but here I’ll tell you these things; you need at least 2 days to fully appreciate it, you should be at least moderately fit to climb up the sandstone hills, you should really do the night tour, and bring a sandwich.

7. Take a Jeep to Explore the Valley of the Moon
Wadi Rum, the desert South of Jordan, is also dubbed the ‘Valley of the Moon’ due to its landscape that looks other-wordly. You might have actually seen it before, you know. Star Wars? The Martian? Aladdin? They were all filmed in this desert. This magnificent place is just a vast orange land, with jagged rock formations creating small valleys with wild camels galloping around. It is especially beautiful at sunset, when the light turns the entire place bright orange. Driving across the desert requires a specific jeep, which you can rent online or at the reception desk of any nearby campsite. You should note that Wadi Rum is extremely cold during winter, and the temperature will plummet after sundown. An extra treat? Spend a night or two with the Arab Bedouins in a nomadic-style desert tent, and appreciate how these amazing people live out here for generations.

8. Watch the Desert Sunrise in Bed, in a See-Through Glamping Tent
Speaking of tents. What most camp sites also provide is an experience of ‘glamping’ in a see-through tent. It’s a Mars-like round tent with a transparent side of the wall, and what this means is that you can watch the sunset/sunrise in the comforts of your own room, and let’s not forget the stargazing! This is especially important during winter, because who wants to die of hypothermia from watching the night sky? It’s certainly more pricey than the regular tents, but boy oh boy is it worth it. I stayed at a camp called Hasan Zawaideh Camp, and I loved it. They even have a fancy nomadic tea room for you to hang out in, with a fireplace, floor-to-ceiling carpets and sisha. The breakfast and dinner spread is also pretty good.

9. Eat Slow Cooked Goat Cooked in Sand in the Middle of the Desert
I have a strange bucket list. One of the things in the bucket list was eating a goat that is cooked in the sand in the middle of the desert by desert nomads. Where did I get this idea, you asked? From an Anthony Bourdain TV show. As a young girl, that image of Anthony huddled with a group of nomads under the starry night sky in the middle of a vast desert while gnawing on the bones of a well-cooked goat became the epitome of my visualisation of an adventure. And guess what? I finally ticked this one off the list in Wadi Rum, Jordan. You can ask your host if this is possible (it usually is, although you’ll have to pay), and before dinner time be sure to show up early and ask the cook if you can see the unveiling of the meat from the ground (you usually can).
Was the goat as good as I had imagined it all these years? Yes, my friend, yes. The animal is cooked low and slow in the heat of the charcoal and sand for almost an entire day, mildly spiced and served with roasted vegetables, onions and garlic. Perfect for a cold night in the desert. Thank you, Anthony Bourdain, for the inspiration.

10.  Chill in Cafes by the Red Sea in Aqaba
One of the southmost cities of Jordan, Aqaba, is well worth a visit, if only for just a half-day. It’s where the country meets the Red Sea, a sea mentioned in both the Bible and the Quran, and you’re probably most familiar with it through the story of how Moses parted the Red Sea in order to flee with the rest of the Israelis from the hands of Pharoah. From the coastline of the sea, you can see 3 different nations - Jordan, Egypt and Israel. Aqaba itself is a very laid-back seaside town, with a beautiful waterfront boasting with cafes and restaurants, and bustling roads lined with small shops worth a visit. Things are generally cheaper here than the rest of the country thanks to its tax-free appeal, so it’s a good place to get some local souvenirs or splurge a little. Otherwise, take time to sit by the pier and enjoy a cuppa with a view in one of the pretty cafes.

11. Immerse Yourself in History at Madaba
As you make your way up to the North of Jordan again, re-route yourself through the highway that will pass through Madaba. It’s a small city in the middle of Jordan, but mighty when it comes to its history. The Greek Orthodox church in the city currently preserves the biggest known early map of the Holy Land, made completely from tiny mosaics. It’s amazing to observe the details of this map, and how life was depicted like back in the day. Madaba is also well-known in the Islamic history as the location for the Battle of Mu’tah, where the Islamic army led by the Prophet Muhammad battled the Romans, with 3 of his closest companions perished. Their tombs are located in the city. Madaba is also close to Mount Nebo, where biblical accounts claim Prophet Moses climbed and saw the Promised Land for the first time. Of course, you can see it too from the top of the mountain. On a clear day, you’ll be able to view as far as Jerusalem and Ramallah, and it’s amazing to put it all into perspective - so many stories of remarkable people in the holy books took place around this area, as well as centuries of wars and political turmoil. It is worth to spend at least a day or so in and around the city.

12. Watch a City Sunset In Amman
Amman, the capital city of Jordan, is certainly a place of its own. There’s the citadel for you to see, perched on top of the hill overlooking the entire population, and also the place where Coldplay launched their album last year via a live streaming performance from that very same citadel. Amman has the vibe of a middle eastern city, quiet, low-key, and beige-coloured, but at the same time some parts of it, like Jafra and Sweifieh Village, exhibits a lot of globalisation, in terms of food, fashion and even culture.
A nice thing to do would be to find a rooftop cafe (there are plenty in the city, such as the ones near the as-Shams cafe area), and watch the sunset with a drink or a plate of falafels/hummus. The way the dark washes over the brown buildings and the blue skies is a nice way to wrap up your entire Jordanian adventure. 

​It’s definitely worth renting a car for your travels in Jordan, as public transport isn’t the most efficient here. On the other hand, local Jordanians are warm, friendly and so helpful. I’ve had people give me free food, invite me to their homes for tea and gave wonderful recommendations over what to do and where to go.
ProTip: Get the Jordan pass, which you can buy online and gives you access to most historical sites around the country. It’s much more value for money than buying tickets per-entry to everything.

It was freezing cold while we stood in the dark in what seemed like was the middle of nowhere, and it was hard to be still in the freezing temperatures while waiting for the hot air balloon to be set up. The guy who drove us there took out a foldable table and set up a small snacking center with hot drinks, and the steam coming out of the cups was like a little piece of heavenly relief - it was -1 degrees at 6.30 am, and this was Cappadocia, Turkey.

In the summer this place would be swarming with tourists. I’ve never witnessed it, but the number of shops and restaurants crammed in the little village of Goreme where I was staying at definitely indicated an anticipation of a massive pilgrimage – they have more Asian restaurants than Istanbul did, for example. But in winter, it becomes the complete opposite. I walked down the street for a few blocks and only bumped into 3 other people. There were hardly anyone at the restaurants. There were no queues at the museum. The hot air balloon was 65 euros less than the usual price. The Whirling Dervish tickets for 25 euros? I got it for free.

​Cappadocia is an amazing place to be at any time of the year, but in winter, it gives off a different kind of charm. It’s relatively arid, with volcanic tuffs forming strange-looking peaks and formations that look like fairytale chimneys, but these are amplified when you’ve got snowfall. The entire place begins to look like a scene right out of Disney, and if there is ever a time when you get a sudden urge to sing out a little musical, this is the time and place to do so. The small houses and buildings are covered in white, the rocky brown peaks are sprinkled with white dust, the snow on the ground are tinted purple from the falling berries off the trees, and the horse ranches were just something else – picture these beautiful creatures prancing around with the playful dogs in snowy fields as far as your eyes can see. It’s the postcard-picture ideal of serenity. During low seasons the horseback rides are only 30 euros for 2 hours, whereas in the summer, it only gets you an hour.

​The only downside to being here in winter is that the weather is more unpredictable. Sometimes, the hot air balloons are cancelled due to the strong winds or heavy snowfall. I was lucky that my scheduled ride went on as planned. There was no snow that day, and as we escalated above the hills I saw the horizon light up with the emergence of the sun as the day began – to say it was heavenly is an understatement. There is a specific effect, perhaps only found in this part of the world where the sunshine bathes the arid landscape with an orange tint, and you’re high up enough to see everything, but low enough to spot a dog yapping happily at your large balloon, its tail wagging.

But of course natural beauty isn’t the only thing that’s magical around here in the winter. It’s also the people. The absence of touristy crowds also means that the locals are more in their natural element. The elderly walks to and from the mosques, having laughing conversations on the benches by the roadside, the kids walk to school in groups, and the weekly market only has local attendees, where everyone finds you as interesting as the new oranges that are in season. Local cheeses are sold in large barrels cheaply, and you can try olives and fresh fruits and no one would harass you buy anything. Honey and nuts are a local specialty here if you’re thinking of getting some home. Otherwise, sit at the quiet cafes and enjoy some hot chocolate while watching the snow fall quietly on the pavements – a meal or two wouldn’t be totally inappropriate. In which case, I’d suggest the Old Cappadocia Restaurant for its stone oven bread and pide (a type of Turkish pizza). Or maybe some roasted eggplants topped with stewed tomatoes, with some testi kebabi cooked in small clay potteries. And why not some homemade baklavas for dessert?
Winter in Cappadocia is a definitely a dreamy affair. I’d do it all over again.

Sometimes when I think about this particular hike, I think that I might be dreaming. Was I really there? Did I really do it? Unlike the Annapurna Base Camp hike that I did last year, I hardly trained or planned for this one. First of all, I’ve never even heard of Rakaposhi Base Camp until right before I went to Pakistan (I mean, have you?). Secondly, because it isn’t popular, there weren’t many reviews of the hike, so it was easy to underestimate it.
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And underestimate it I did. In the end, I felt that it was tougher than Annapurna Base Camp, in terms of intensity.

Rakaposhi Mountain is the 27th highest mountain in the world, mostly known for its exceptional rise from an otherwise normal local terrain (translation: steep). It rises 5900 meters in only an 11.2 km horizontal distance from the Hunza-Nagar River. The Rakaposhi Base Camp is at 3500 meters, and the plan was to climb up, and then back down, all in an entire day (tip: don’t, unless you’re prepped for it.) because of time constraints.
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I would divide the entire climb up into 4 different legs.

The first leg begins from Minapin Village, which is the starting point of the hiking route. Minapin Village is a quaint population within the Nagar Valley, and the locals there are mostly farmers who work the lands up to the mountains. My friends and I met a nice guy from the village called Hussein, whom, while in the midst of applying for college, was bored to death and wanted to come with us on the hike. He claimed that he goes up there at least once a year for fun (what??) with his friends anyway.

As soon as you get to the edge of the village near a hydroplant, the track instantly starts climbing in a zigzag pattern. We started very early in the morning, and it was normal to be climbing this part of the terrain with other locals with donkeys as a lot of them would be headed up to their hillside farms to work for the day. An old guy with normal shoes and a donkey surpassed me and disappeared in a matter of minutes without so much of looking even slightly breathless, so you can understand how that messed with my self-esteem a little. At this point your adrenaline wouldn’t have kicked in yet, so the climb will be a little painful.

The second leg is a lot easier than the first one. The incline reduces, and you come to nice forested area with beautiful greens and small rivers. On my climbing day there was absolutely no other hiker on these tracks except for myself, two other friends, Hussein and another Australian climber. One of the best things about this climb is that due to its unpopularity, you get the place all to yourself. During this leg of the hike, you’ll come across a small village made of ragged stones and overlooking the mountain ranges. I loved the place – it reminded me of scenes from the Vikings TV Show for some reason.
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Eventually you’ll walk out of the forested area and into a new territory – vast green fields and a sharp incline of the tracks. You’ll also begin seeing glimpses of the Minapin Glacier. I was so excited to see it, but this is also how you know the second leg of the hike is ending and the next few hours is going to be a bitch (excuse my French).

The third leg of the hike is the hardest for me. The ground was unconsolidated, which meant that I had to use more energy to climb, and it was easy to slip and fall on your butt (which I did, twice. The second one hurt). The area was also a lot more open, and the wind and sun made it more challenging. In the spirit of sharing, I must also state that I was on my period, and this caused me to feel tired and dehydrated fairly quickly – I found myself needing more breaks, and needing more snacks.

The gradual climb will eventually let you come to a meadow with a beautiful trail and beautiful alpine flowers, and the peak of the Rakaposhi Mountain will be very visible. It was so beautiful I forgot all about my lethargy and raced up to the top. And once you’re at the top of that trail, hold your breath, people. You’re about to see one of the most beautiful sights you would ever lay eyes on – miles and miles of white-as-sheet glacier set at the bottom of an enormous snowy mountain range, the glaciers peeking out as though they were frozen large ice waves. And absolutely no White Walker in sight.
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Like I’ve said before, one of the best treats of this Base Camp is that it is absolutely void with people, so you get a stunning scenery with zero Insta-star posing for 500 shots at the viewpoints for, you know, ‘content’.

Now you can choose to stop here. You can. In fact, most people would. But what you can also do is continue to the fourth leg of the hike – the trail past the Base Camp, and onto the glacier. Yes, you’ve seen the ice sheet, now why not be on it? Follow the trail which will take you to the Base Camp grounds (a secluded area with a camping site, a small building, a dodgy toilet and a small creek), and carry on beyond it towards the direction of the glacier. We had to climb up and down some large rubbles and it was quite exhausting especially after an entire day hiking, but once I got on top of the glacier it felt worth it. Cold ice water streams also meant you can refill your drinking bottles, and while doing so I pictured myself in an Evian ad.

If you plan to go back down on the same day, you should begin at the latest around 3pm. This would allow you to reduce the time hiking in the dark, especially through the third leg of the hike where the descend is steep and the grounds are lose, which would be dangerous. You don’t want to be the annoying tourist that caused the entire Minapin village to have to go out and rescue you (and this has happened before, according to locals).

Based on my personal experience these would be my main tips (applicable only if you’re an average amateur hiker);

1. Good shoes – I know some people argue that you can actually hike with normal shoes, but for a trek like this, where some parts are lose grounds, and you would be walking on ice, for the love of God (and your kneecaps), wear proper hiking shoes.
2. Jacket and layers – at times it gets a little hot, but at the top the wind is strong and you don’t want to waste your energy shivering, so bring a jacket.
3. Food – Unlike Annapurna Base Camp, there are no tea houses or lodging houses, so you would need to pack your lunch with you. My mistake was not packing a proper lunch (I brought snacks), and this caused me to be in a certain type of mood (I get moody when hungry) after a while.
4. Cater to your physical state – go slow if you’re not feeling in your best shape. Don’t attempt it in a day if you’re not fit. If you know yourself to be sub-performing during your period, visit your o-b-g-y-n to make sure it doesn’t happen during.
5. Enjoy it – Soak. Every. Damn. Thing. It really is (and I’ve been on a few hikes), if I dare say so myself, one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done.

​I dozed off immediately after I got into the car that was supposed to take me from Islamabad to Hunza Valley. I think it was the lunch that got me so drowsy – yet another helping of Biryani, a mound of rice with secret pieces of chicken hidden within it, that made me feel instantly doozy. I think I slept for a good hour, but given that the entire ride will take a whole day, it didn’t matter so much. When I woke up, Islamabad had disappeared. What was before my eyes was now glimpses of the Pakistan highlands – vast, mountainous, majestic. This was the view I had from the car for the next 22 hours.

​That side of the world has always felt very intriguing for me. You know, ‘that side’. Not quite middle-eastern, at the foot of the most prominent mountain ranges on earth, and despite the bad-rep they always get from the media, remains mysterious and not quite well-known. Wasn’t it infamous for a Taliban-related attack not so long ago? Some Western news mass-generalized it as the place where women are oppressed – I never easily believe anything, so part of me wanted to go because I wanted to see this place for myself and feed my own curiosity.

​Hunza Valley is located in Northern Pakistan. On Google Map it looks like a tiny dot of a place sandwiched between thousands of miles of snowy mountain ranges. To get there, I had to first get myself to Islamabad. From Islamabad, I had a few options – take the 1 hour flight to Gilgit, and then a taxi from Gilgit to Hunza Valley, take the public bus (a popular one is faisalmovers.com) to Gilgit, and cab my way to Hunza Valley as well, or rent a car with a driver, who will drive me right to the doorsteps of the hotel. I took the last option, and shared the fare with three other guys. After all, nothing says nuts like sharing a car with a non-English speaking driver and another stranger for a drive that takes a long time. Prepare copies of your passport because there will be a lot of military check points along the way. You’ll also be required to put up a night somewhere because the check point gates are closed after 5pm. For more info on traveling by road to North Pakistan, see here.

​Gilgit is one of the main towns in the North and everything else pretty much branches out from there. I stayed at Karimabad, which was a smaller town about 1 hour drive from Gilgit, at the heart of Hunza Valley. And let me just say this first and foremost – Hunza Valley is perhaps one of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life, if not the most. No, I’m not overselling it. Tiny villages dot the area, surrounded by tall snow-capped mountain ranges everywhere you look. It feels like a place so isolated with its beauty remaining a huge secret. The people are so chill and friendly, no one wants to scam you and everyone wants to help you. The average lifespan here is around 95 years, and you can easily see why by looking at the lifestyle here. The land is so fertile and there are apple trees, apricot trees, peaches, pears, walnuts in everybody’s lawns, and you’re welcomed to help yourselves to as much as you want. I had my first taste of yak meat, which tasted strong and meaty, in local dishes comprising a lot of fat and meat, a common choice in this cold region. To best engross yourself in the area, take a nice long walk in the villages and watch people go about their daily routines, try local snacks, eat some fruits under the trees, and watch the sun set behind the mountains.

​To get the most out of Hunza Valley and its surroundings, you need to get a jeep with a driver. For the entire day you can get a rate of about USD40, and explore some sights at your own leisure. Horpar Valley is a place not to be missed, a small village reachable through an insane narrow road right next to gut-wrenching cliffs. There is a viewpoint in the village where you can get unspoiled views of the Horpar Glacier. It’s the fastest moving glacier in the world, at 5cm/day. Attabad Lake is also worth a visit, an eerie beautiful blue lake fed by the glacier water that resulted from a massive avalanche that drowned a highway and a village, killing 11 people. Passu is a great little area where you can soak your sights on the amazing Cathedral or Cone Mountain – a ragged mountain range that looks like a giant crown, and driving in and between these places is an experience by itself. Standing on the seats of my jeep and just feeling the rush of the wind through me with the sunshine in my face and looking across to the vast, euphoric scenery made me feel like I was in a scene of a movie about a girl who was on a quest for the adventure of a lifetime. It was liberating and joyous, a feeling that is hard to explain.

​If you’re looking for something more physical, like I always do when I’m traveling (I hate the whole sit-in-a-car-and-get-down-only-to-take-pictures motion), then boy do I have recommendations for you. I went hiking to the Rakopashi Base Camp, details of which you can read HERE. It’s not for the faint hearted but I promise you it is absolutely worth it. I also went to Fairy Meadows, arguably one the more famous trails in North Pakistan (also infamous: in 2010 11 people were shot here by the Taliban). It takes 2 hours of Jeep Ride through the second most dangerous road in the world (yep) and an additional 2-hour horse ride or 3-hour hike to get there. But once you do, it’s just extremely breathtaking. The entire meadow oversees Nagar Parbat, one of the highest mountains in the world. Need I say more?

​If you ask me, I’ll tell you this; North Pakistan is extremely underrated. A local told me that once, the place was a bustling tourist area, but after 9/11 the whole industry collapsed and with it, the economy of the locals. These days North Pakistan is largely safe. You’ll see many military check points and a lot of police and soldiers around, but it’s just a safety measure to ensure that what happened many years ago will not occur again. If you manage to brave the roads, the unpredictable public transport and the occasional “sorry there’s no electricity or hot shower because the generator went off throughout the entire village”, then I can almost guarantee you that Pakistan will be the voyage to remember. Definitely one for the books.

​What To Eat: the Pakistani palette is a must-try! I had one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever eaten here, called Chicken Karahi – chicken pieces cooked in spices and yoghurt until the meat falls off the bone and you mop up all the sauce with some homemade bread. Yak meat is also worth a try in the Northern regions, commonly prepared with a lot of cheese and bread. There are also endless possibilities when it comes to beans, lentils and veggies, mostly cooked in a version of local curry. These are absolutely amazing with hot, fresh parathas. And please, please, please do not forget to indulge yourself with a tall glass of freshly blended apricot juice. They literally go out to the lawn and pick out the fruits from a tree and chuck them into a blender - it doesn't get any fresher than that.

If you’ve never been to Hawaii, then the Hawaii that you’d know (that is, through movies, music and pictures), is most probably of the Oahu Island. Hawaii is an archipelago of islands, and Oahu is perhaps the most famous one yet, home to Honolulu, the capital city of Hawaii. A popular vacation spot for famous people and the usual filming location for various Hollywood movies has blossomed the island into a busy, well-developed and touristy place for everyone to enjoy. Contrary to Big Island, Hawaii that you could read about here, Oahu is a much more modern take on what it means to have an island adventure.
 
Here are some of the things you can look forward to if/when you visit Oahu, Hawaii.
 
1. Hang out at Waikiki Beach and its beach city strip
Look, if you didn’t check out Waikiki, were you even in Oahu? If the Beach Boys sang about it, then there has to be a reason for its hype. The beach city strip has everything to offer, from the hotels, restaurants, shopping, yoga studios and bars, all set along the wide, surfing-friendly Waikiki beach. There’s even a Tesla showroom, guys. Certainly overcrowded with tourists, but the upside is you can pretty much everything in one place. I particularly enjoyed the late evenings here, as you get to chill by the beach while watching surfers emerge around the large rolling waves, and as the sun set you get the feel of the city in a whole different light. 

2. Check out famous movie sets
Jurassic Park. 50 First Dates. Lost. Forgetting Sarah Marshall. Hawaii Five-O. These are only some of the few of our beloved movies and shows shot here in Oahu. Most of these are around the Northern area of the island near Kauai Ranch, where the landscape is much more scenic, giving a faraway-in-a-distant-island vibe. I particularly enjoyed a visit to Hukilau Cafe from 50 First Dates, arguably one my favourite rom-coms. Some of the locations require an entrance fee, but if you ask me, you’d enjoy the free ones just as much. 

3. Go for a hike at its many, many nature trails
There are no less than 20 official hiking trails in Oahu, thanks to its rugged, volcanic terrains. They are not as vast as the ones you’d find in the Volcano National Park in Big Island, but they’ll provide sweeping views of the island. One of the more popular ones is the Diamond Head trail, and easy climb that will reward you with a beautiful view of Waikiki. There is even an old lighthouse at the top.
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Aside from hikes, the island also has various other physical activities, such as diving, paragliding, surfing, sky diving and lots more. A quick visit to one of the island’s many information centers will give you more than enough reference for the things you would like to do.

4. Have a Hawaiian gastronomic experience
Now we’re talking! Brace yourself for some good old American food fiesta, with a dash of tropical zest of Hawaii. Something that is rather popular here and seems to have garnered a cult of its own is the garlic shrimp movement. Sold in food trucks everywhere, they are basically garlicky, juice fat shrimps cooked in butter and served with either fries or rice. The most famous of them all is Giovanni’s Garlic Shrimp, located near the North Shore. You’ll find it easily by spotting the truck with the longest queue. They are certainly worth the hype for me.
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Aside from this, other delicacies you should not miss is Hawaiian Haupia pie, a delicious coconut-based cream pie, pancakes at iHop (everywhere in the US actually, but hey, the pancakes make this place worth a mention), and the Hula chicken, which is a roast chicken variation marinated in pineapple juice. I would also like to make a special shout out to a place called Grylt, where I had the best Tuna wrap in my life. The tuna was perfectly seared so it was still juicy and red in the middle, and the whole combo was just something I would remember in a long, long time.

5. Bask in some Hawaiian history
Hey, have you heard of Pearl Harbour? It’s here on this island, and you’d miss out if you don’t check it out and enjoy the free boat tour around the place of the infamous Japanese attack during the height of the World War. You might also catch a distant sound of Faith Hill’s ‘There You’ll Be’ playing somewhere in the background (ok I’m kidding).
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But the island’s history is so much more than just the World War 2. The Hawaiian history dates back way beyond that, and during the height of the Polynesian civilisation, there were civil wars between the tribes and the rise and fall of Hawaiian royalties to immerse yourself in. Be sure to get to know some of them, as they would give you a much better appreciation of the archipelago and the story of its people.

6. Shop at Waikele Premium Outlets
Shopping is my least favourite thing to do when travelling. But I suppose if there is giant factory outlet with a 70% discount on all items, you’d be a fool to not take advantage of it. Waikele Premium Outlets is so huge that it is impossible to cover in a single day, so much so that it has a map so you won’t get lost or pee on yourself from not being able to locate the nearest lavatory.

Hanging out here is a great option especially if it's raining outside, as much of everything else to do around the island is outdoorsy.

I did a little solo trip to Ubud, Bali recently, on a mission to write the third book. No, it’s not really an ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ thing, given that I wasn’t there for 3 months and the travel wasn’t exactly a ‘voyage’ – Bali is only a 3-hour flight away from my city. Bali is close by, fairly easy in accessibility, has amazing food scene and lots of yoga classes. I stayed in Ubud, the epicenter of hippies, environmentally-conscious communities (and some borderline fanatics), and Yoga-loving, clean-eating, chakra-aligning enthusiasts.
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Although not a vegan, I absolutely love vegan food done well, and I took the opportunity to hunt and try out some vegan spots in Ubud. Now I will not say that I’ve tried all of the vegan restaurants and cafes in town, but of all of those that I did try, here are my Top 3 recommendations if you should ever feel like indulging your inner vegan-self when you are in Ubud, Bali.
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1.) Moksa Plant-Based Restaurant
Puskesmas Ubud II, Gg. Damai, Sayan, Kec. Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571, Indonesia
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In a nutshell, if you only have time to go to one vegan restaurant, then say no more. This is the place. Set in a higher elevation from the rest of the town which provides a beautiful breeze, Moksa is a farm-to-table concept restaurant – meaning that they have a farm just next to it, and pretty much everything you consume there is grown organically next door. The ambience is chill, the hospitality amazing, and I found myself sitting there for almost four hours eating non-stop while writing on my laptop, set in the beautiful green garden.

Now let’s talk about the food. Lead by Chef Made Runatha, the menu is enticing, imaginative and extensive – think lasagna made with cashew cheese, burger patties made from jackfruit (the ‘vegan’ meat, as they call it), eggplant rendang (if you’ve never had rendang, you’re missing out on life), and vegan ‘ribs’ and mash (made by juicy, flavourful tempeh). I started off my meal with a tall cold glass of coconut water, and had a plate of the vegan ‘ribs’. The tempeh was braised in home-made BBQ sauce, retaining its juicy interior and barbecue-y taste. They temped slices were served on a bed of creamy sweet potato mash and a side salad.

I also ordered a plate of jackfruit crepe, which is a naturally-colored green crepe stuffed with a filling of sweet ripe jackfruit, goji berries and coconut. It was amazing. I wish I had the stomach space to eat more from the menu.

Price-wise, my total meal of coconut water, tempeh ribs, dessert and iced coffee came up to about RM48, which is considerably very appropriate given that it was all organic and very, very filling. I honestly can’t wait to go back again.
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PS: They also have morning markets every Wednesday and Saturday, as well as yoga classes (you can check the schedule on their official website)

2.) The Seeds Of Life
Jalan Gautama No.2, Ubud, Gianyar, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571, Indonesia

If you want to take it up a notch, why not try a vegan, raw restaurant? Yes, you read that right. Nothing is cooked over fire in this cosy little place (the concept that the more raw it is, the more nutrients the food retain), but despite that, the menu is exciting and extensive. They have a whole separate menu for jamu (health shots made from fresh herbs and spices) and drinks, and then a whole menu for meals. And let’s not forget the dessert counter with so many delicious, raw and vegan delicacies such as the raw chocolate tarts, so many types of energy balls, carrot cake and vegan cheese cake.
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How nice can a vegan meal be? One may ask. The key to why the food is so good here is that they are inventive. In fact, it’s so inventive that I came here 3 times just so that I could try a little bit of everything, from the breakfast menu, to brunch, and lunch. I had a dehydrated papaya crepe stuffed with ‘nutella’ which was such a treat, a vegan version of the classic breakfast made of scrambled corn ‘eggs’, stuffed mushrooms, marinated spinach, eggplant 'bacon‘ and live bread, a plate of raw lasagna made from cashew cheese, avocado, mango, tomato, beetroot and spinach, and cauliflower ‘buffalo wings’ which was served raw, slathered with spicy harissa and vegan cheese sauce.
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I also had some of the desserts and a couple of juices, and none of these things were not good. Another upside to this place is that it is located right in the center of town, so it’s not hard to find.
If you’ve never tried eating raw before, The Seeds Of Life is definitely a place to start.

3.) Sage
Jl. Nyuh Bulan No. 1, Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud

Before we get to the food, let’s talk about the interior and setting. It’s away from town, in a small building painted white and sapphire blue. Kind of like something you’d see in Santorini. There are large windows which means it’s not stuffy inside, and the seating style is cozy, making full use of the nooks and crannies of the building.

Sage doesn’t necessarily boast a long list of menu like Moksa, but it certainly has a delicious line of vegan options to choose from. The ‘pulled pork’ jackfruit burrito seems to be a fairly popular choice from the blogs online, and so that was what I ordered. It was delicious. The jackfruit was somehow cured to give it a different, spicier taste, and the texture was sturdy, almost like very soft meat. The burrito was stuffed with rice, cashew cheese, tomatoes and cilantro, served with a refreshing homemade tomato salsa and nut cream dip.

I also had a small shot of a jamu (health shot made from ginger, turmeric and other fresh herbs). It was pretty intense in flavor, although there is a warm feeling in the stomach after, which I guess is a sign that the jamu is good for your digestion. After the meal I tried out a cold glass of coconut milk latte, and although I’m not really a coffee fan I’d say that it was a great pick-me-up especially in the hot midday Bali weather.
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Sage also serves dessert, and although I didn’t order any because I was full, the girl who sat at the table next to me claimed that their coconut cake was the best she has ever had, and she has been eating them almost every day for 2 weeks despite the fact that she was not a dessert person to begin with. I consider this a pretty good testimony.

​Note: There are many other vegetarian cafes/warungs/restaurants around Ubud that you would be spoiled for choice. I had a plate of local Indonesian mixed vegetarian platter at Café Wayan, which was amazing and cheap. I also had hotcakes with fruits at Watercress Café, and although it was fluffy and delicious, I thought it was a bit pricey. Ubud Raw Chocolate Bar makes amazing raw hot cocoa, and I also had a bowl of raw chocolate smoothie with fruits and granola at Radiantly Alive Café – it was very good and filling.

​What do you think of when you think of Hawaii? I’ll start – I think of surfer dudes. Incessant music from the Beach Boys playing at every corner of the beach city. Coconut bras. Overtanned tourists walking about in ridiculous colourful outfits that are supposed to make them look ‘tropical’ (and coming from a tropical country myself, this is NOT how we dress). Majestic volcanic eruptions. Endless flows of seafood in every restaurant you go to.
Well, some of them are true.

​It turns out that a good number of people do not know that ‘Hawaii’ is actually a cluster of islands. That is to say, you’d need to be specific to which island you’re going if you’re going there. Most airlines would go to Oahu, arguably the most famous island of the whole lot. You can take inter-island flights to move to the rest of the islands. Ferries seem like an invalid option.

​So which island should you go to? In this particular post I would be writing about the Big Island, the largest of the chain of Hawaiian archipelago. It is the Hawai’i. It’s pretty safe to say that a common main reason one would choose this island as opposed to the more popular Honolulu is for the Volcano National Park. The island still has active volcanoes, and the last eruption occurred in May 2018. If you’re dying to see lava flows as far as your eyes could see (and beyond!), this is the place to be.

​There are many spots that you could go to and see volcanic fields (after all, it’s an island made from volcanic eruptions, so the remnants are literally everywhere), but a particular spot worth mentioning would be the Kilauea Lava Field. It’s a large, vast grey space of frozen basaltic flows, and you can spend ages there marvelling at the frozen pillowy structures and the curves of the uneven surface of shiny, hardened magma, that would make you feel as though you’re on a different planet. Is it Earth? Is it Mars? It’s an exhilarating feeling to be right in the middle of it. It would be nice if you could take an aerial shot of the whole deposit using a drone, but it gets very windy around here so be warned.

​The Big Island is a properly planned tourist attraction, so there are plenty of routes and trails and stops for you to enjoy the most out of this beautiful volcanic island – Waipio Valley lookout, Palolo Valley lookout, and so many others especially if you’re within the National Park area. However, as always, I’d say that some of the gems are not as loudly advertised as others. For example, the drive along Highway 250 of the island might actually be one of the most scenic drives you would ever have had. You’ll pass volcanic landscapes from a high viewpoint (great for pictures), gorgeous private homes set among the lush greens growing from the fertile soil, sakura trees (yes! Sakura trees) lining the pavement that walks up to a gorgeous old church, rainbows at the edge of fields, and vast green landscapes that spreads out until the sea meets the earth. I’d recommend driving around here in the late evening, when the sunshine is the right colour and the clouds hang low so that you could see the top of Mount Mauna Kea.

​Speaking of Mauna Kea, did you know that it snows on the island? Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano, but with its peak at more than 4200 meters (which you can hike up to, by the way), it’s common to snow around the mountain during the colder seasons. That being said, you’d be smart to visit the Big Island with a proper jacket if you plan to visit high elevation sites such as this. Mauna Kea is also considered to be one of the best spots in the world for astronomical evaluation, due to its stable airflow and location. There are about eleven telescopes housed here, and there is even a center owned by NASA where you could go and check out or purchase cool astronomical merchandise which also includes space food that real astronomers consume when in space (alright, fine. I might have bought a bunch to take home. So what? We all know I won’t be going to space any time soon, and I want a taste of it).

​But of course let’s not forget the beaches. This is Hawaii after all. It would be a crime to not speak about the seaside where the volcanic sands meet the Pacific Ocean. It isn’t hard to find a private beach where no one is bothering you, with only the sounds of waves and the wind rustling through the trees. I wouldn’t need to describe this at all – we all know the paradise that is the sandy haven with the sun in your face and the frothy seawater bubbling around your feet. But an interesting beach here would be the youngest one of all. The Pohoiki Beach, formed only 7 months ago today, is a black sand beach, and here you would see how the lava flow completely covered the old beach and formed a new one, at the same time trapping some pools of sea water into little natural swimming pools. At the parking lot of the beach you’ll see something just as fascinating – a lava flow had crossed a large road, and just like that, the road is blocked and no longer in use. In a weird way, it kind of paints the façade that everything on the island is temporary. Forever changing. Forever shifting according to eruptions that are frequent.

​In the spirit of honesty, I wish I could say that dining on the Big Island is a major gastronomic affair. However, it seems like not even a place like Hawaii was able to escape the junk/fast food avalanche that it America. The popular food around the island are mostly the fast food chains, with these spots being jam packed with people during lunch and dinner hours. ‘Local’ food comprises of immigrant food – Chinese takeouts, Mexican taco joints, maseladas (Portuguese donuts) and Italian restaurants. For a country that seemed to be constantly on the verge of immigrant-rights issues, it sure does take a lot from these different cultures to make it its own.

​The local produce are, however, wonderful to sample. The island has its own local macadamia farms, and in return macadamia milk is something you should definitely try here. I daresay that it rivals as perhaps the best nut-based milk I’ve ever tasted. If you visit the morning markets you’d see an array of avocados of all shapes and sizes. Enjoy one simply dashed with some salt and a good drizzle of olive oil to really taste its difference from your usual, generic imported avocados in grocery stores.

​So is the Big Island more than just a beach paradise? You bet it is. If you’re looking to go, be prepared with more than just your pair of coconut bra and stereotyped Bermuda pants.

I have two words for you – Before Midnight.
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It’s no secret I’m a fan of the movie series. I love all the filming locations as much as the script themselves. The final movie of the trilogy took place in Greece, but more specifically, the filming location was in Peloponnese, a region in Greece. And when I got there, I knew exactly why this place was chosen as the spot to conclude the story of Jesse and Celine. The emerald green waters against the beautiful white coasts, the portside town with a maze of cobbled, narrow old streets, ancient Greek monuments up on the hill where you can climb up to see the sweeping views, and of course, the food. If ever there is a place to go to for someone to walk aimlessly and reflect on their life, Nafplio must be one of those.

It’s always the history that makes a place beautiful. Nafplio was no exception. Once ruled by the Byzantines, Franks, and even the Ottoman Empire, you can look around and see the marks of these conquers by the different styles of building around town. The ones with domes are Ottoman. The ancient walls of the forts are from the Venetians and Franks. Everything else? Unmistakably Roman.
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This was the last leg of my Greece travels, and after so many days of driving around the country, I was ready to spend my last remaining days just eating, walking around and doing nothing. Nafplio was the perfect choice. You can almost walk everywhere you need to go to, and it’s such a popular weekend town for the Greeks that the streets are filled with beautiful restaurants, gelato stands, bookshops, cafes and hangout spots. In the morning you can visit the fresh food market, something I always make a point of doing whenever I’m some place new. It’s how I get a feel of what the people and the energy is really like, what they eat, how they interact, and what’s in season.

After grazing your way through the market (be friendly, and lots people will let you try lots of things they sell), perhaps a great idea is to venture into the old town square. You’ll get lost in the turns and corners, but don't worry. To get lost is a great way to explore something new. The streets are small and narrow, but the locals seem to maximise this by putting up tables for people to eat, and stalls for you to rummage through old books, postcards and souvenirs. Before noon is also the best time, weather-wise, to climb up the old fort, the Acronauplia, on the hill to check out the scenery. Nothing says Greece quite like a full sunny day with sweeping views of old rooftops, white pebbly beaches and sparkling green sea. And unapologetic locals in the skimpiest bathing suits imaginable, even that old 80 year-old uncle with super tight speedos one could fully visualise his Grecian glory, if you know what I mean.

​Lunch must not be taken lightly. This is a portside region, so do yourself a favour and indulge in the local produce. During one of the afternoons I had a lunch I’ll never forget – fresh sardines filleted and grilled with some local oregano. You’ll find oregano in almost all of the dishes in this country. And with it I had a bowl of blanched chard drenched in glossy, green extra virgin Greek olive oil, with a squeeze of lemon. Speaking of which, it was the orange season at the time, and I had some of the best oranges I’ve ever had here.

​As advertised, you won’t have an actual goal in Nafplio. You sit around the cafes and write postcards. You chat with some other people sitting at the table next to you. You check out the old railroads that have been there since 1886. You try out some gelatos which are great to compliment the balmy weather. If you have a car, you can drive up to Corinth Canal and watch the boats pass by the 6km long waterway. The canal opens up to the Aegean Sea (which is also the sea Achilles once sailed in to travel to Troy). It sounds blah, but it’s rather interesting to see actually.

At night the main town changes its façade and becomes a beautiful glittery place with music, candlelight and even more delicious food. Sometimes the main town square, called the Plateia Syntagmatos, would have fun events to watch. I managed to catch a school choir competition, which turned out to be rather fitting, listening to beautiful gospel singing echoing through the streets of this beautiful town.
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You sit in the middle of the crowd of happy people, eating a scoop of pistachio gelato, in the air that smells of the sea and the sounds of guitar and Greek music that you can’t understand. You feel like dancing. You cheer on with the crowd even when you have no idea what the commotion is all about. You feel like you’ve seen Greece the way you really want to see it – offbeat, local, and with a full stomach.

​That’s why you come to Nafplio.

Travel means differently to different people. For some, it means stepping into a temporary gratification of the luxurious – think fancy hotels, a butler, room service. For others it’s an excuse to throw the rules out of the window and eat with zero conscience. For the rest it means adventure, away from our daily, mundane routines.

I like all of these reasons. I’ve done it for all of these reasons. But so far, here is the best reason I like to travel; it’s the feeling of arriving someplace, a new place, where nothing is familiar, and you think to yourself, “Where the bejesus am I??”
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I love this feeling. I’m addicted to this feeling. It makes me feel that the world is so strange but wonderful but vast but beautiful. And that was exactly the feeling I had when I arrived in Zagori Village, Greece, about six hours’ drive away from Athens. 

​I have never driven that far in my life, let alone in a foreign country on the opposite side of the car. But the drive to the Ioninna region of Greece is beautiful, past Greek landscapes of mountains, olive farms, small narrow roads past villages, sheep, working horses, and the Aegean sea. I arrived at the small hotel called Kipi Suites, a large mansion on top of the hill surrounded by the small Zigori Village, after a long drive through lonely roads that did not seem to lead anywhere.

​I want to tell you more about Zigori Village. But first, have you ever read an Enid Blython book? In her books she often describes magical villages surrounded by beautiful green woods and quiet rivers, with stone houses, slate roofs, and tiny lanes that are cobbled. Well, that’s Zigori Village. People are nice, the local tavern serves amazing food, the village dogs love you, and if you’re lucky you come across the mountain turtles who sometimes visit from the woods.

​This region of Ioninna is located near the borders of Greece-Albania, and it was once occupied by the Turkish Empire. As a result, you see a lot of their architectural influences around the area, such as the many, many, many beautifully designed bridges crossing the emerald green rivers with icy cold waters. I went for long walks through the woods, which lead to quiet, pebbly riverbanks, and all the pathways are made from cobblestones with weeds growing in between (I’m starting to sound like I’m describing a Disney village, aren’t I?).

​Life here is quiet, and so I seemed to emulate this energy as well. I woke up early to watch the sunrise from the balcony of the hotel (there was no one else occupying this hotel, this is how remote the village is), and sheets of morning fog uncovered the whole village and its surrounding landscape. The lady who hosted the place (who is also the cook, receptionist and housekeeper) made a cheese pie for breakfast, which is basically baked feta cheese in filo pastry with olives. Then I wrote for about an hour, and after that set off to hike for Vikos Gorge, the second deepest canyon in the world. I went for the Beloi Viewpoint to see the entire canyon, and saw some wild deers. The national park is gorgeous, a Mediterranean stone forest with gorgeous sunshine, and the gorge itself was a view to behold.

After that it was a late lunch at the tavern, complete with the neighborhood dogs trying to get the plate of meat patties, and of course, a generous plate of Greek Salad. This area houses around 45 small villages, so you can imagine the amount of sightseeing one could get by walking around. I packed some water, snacks, and a good jacket, then off I went on long walks. I just remember feeling so happy as I walked, and the air smelled like old leaves and pine trees. I was so far away from everything I knew, and somehow this made me feel free.

Ioninna is a place that reminded me why I liked to travel. The roads are not popular, the villages are modest. You won’t find any designer shops here. People wear sensible shoes and clothes, and no one is in a hurry or trying to fish out as much money as possible from you. Lives are simple, and nothing is touristy – the natural wonders are there, quiet, beautiful, undisturbed.

Where the bejesus was I? Nowhere, and it was spectacular.

DAY 7
Weather: Sunny

Last day of hike. We started off rather early, and it was a pleasant and relatively easy route, passing dense jungles, flatlands and small rivers. My main motivation today was just to go to my hotel and shower the shit out of myself. I miss shampoo. I miss soap. I miss smelling and looking like an actual woman. Being out there for days on end with no shower has successfully turned me into some kind of ape form.

Throughout the hike today I was very relaxed and spent the time just reflecting on the whole experience. I loved every minute of it. I love the exhilaration, the adrenaline and the views. I’m pretty sure I would be doing the Everest Base Camp hike at some point in the future, hopefully better prepared with what I’ve learned. And I’ve learned so much during this trip. About what I’m actually capable of, new skills of the outdoorsy living, other people, and other lifestyles.

Getting to the top at the Base Camp was an accomplishment, sure, but what I will remember most is days and days of the journey itself. Sometimes it was fun, sometimes it was easy, other times it was hard, and others times it was a little overwhelming. And how you experience it all depends on how you perceive these things – if you choose to complain and whine, that’s what they will all just boil down to. A miserable experience. But if you choose to take all of them with stride, you’ll end up feeling pretty happy with the whole package deal. You see many types of people during this expedition with many types of personalities. The complainers, the ones who are determined, the ones who are reflective, and the ones who always look at the glass half empty.

Me? I’m just very happy to be everywhere I have been.
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Also I’ve just taken a long, well deserved shower. Civilisation is the bomb, son!

I underestimated: The power of positive thinking

I overestimated: my ‘vegan’ abilities. I ate a pile of meat when we came back.

Tips: Learn to always find happiness even in tough situations.