​Kyushu is the main island south of Japan. Perhaps not as popular as the other main islands of Japan, I was equally as charmed by it as other bigger islands of the country I’ve been to. Here, I share my recommended 10-day itinerary that covers most of the main parts of the island, in a road-trip fashion that will take you on a clockwise-route, beginning and ending with Fukuoka, Kyushu’s main city. Most international flights to and from Kyushu arrive and depart here.
 
Contrary to other parts of Japan, I definitely think that driving is the best way to make the most of Kyushu, given that its public transport lines are not as extensive. On top of that, there are plenty of pit stops and amazing views to enjoy if you are to travel using a car on this island, so I’d definitely recommend it. 

Day 1 – Fukuoka
Regardless of which time of the day you’ve arrived in Fukuoka, take the time today to assimilate, rest and explore the city. If you’re renting a car, the best way to pick it up is near the airport, as the airport is right in the middle of the city. Then check into your accommodation, or go ahead and park in one of the public parking spots around the city and explore it on foot. A great place to start would be Hakata Ward, the center of the city. Like every other Japanese city, Fukuoka is well planned, clean, busy and modern. Walk along Naka river and find some local grub around the way. There are plenty of sushi places in the city center (even Michelin-star ones!), as well as cheaper options like udon or ramen joints. The perks of being in the city is that you’d be spoiled for choice when it comes to food, so you utilize the opportunity.

Day 2 – Beppu
Start the day by driving out of Fukuoka towards Beppu, which is a city in the East of the island. Along the way you’ll emerge into the mountain ranges where the views are just beautiful. You might even want to make a quick pit stop at Hita, a small town in the mountains. Dating as far back as xxx during the Edo period, Hita is a quaint little place to go for a walk, along the main shopping street as well as the small park next to it. As it is right in the middle of your entire route today, it’s also a good idea to grab some lunch in town. Grilled unagi (eel) seems to be popular here, the smell of grilled fish wafting through the air as you walk down Mamedamachi Street, which is the area I’d recommend you stretch your legs. Afterwards you can continue your way east towards Beppu.
 
Beppu is an onsen city, with almost 2000 hot spring outlets to be found within the area. The locals use the hot springs to bathe, and even to cook. Drive straight to Yukemuri Observatory, where you can catch a beautiful sunset view of Beppu. From here, you’d be able to see all the steams coming out of the city, which are from the hot springs. It’s really quite remarkable. From here you can then proceed to settle down for the day, perhaps with a nice warm dinner or even to one of the onsens scattered around the city.

Day 3 – Yufuin
Today, you’ll take time to explore Yufuin. Yufuin is a town west of Beppu, about an hour’s drive from the city center. On the way to Yufuin, make a pit stop at Mount Yufu (you won’t regret it!). There is a beautiful trailhead where people begin their hike up to the peak of Mount Yufu, and of course you could do this if you have the time. But if you don’t, it suffices to get out of your car, and climb up to a view point up on the hill where the landscape is vast and green and stunning.
 
As you arrive in Yufuin, you can begin your day’s exploration at Yufuin Floral Village. Popular for its representations of Ghibli cartoons, there are cute lanes lined with souvenir shops, tiny cafes and novelty stores dedicated to the Japanese’s love for their Ghibli animations. If you’re a fan, this will be an absolute treat, but even if you’re not it’s still pleasant to walk around and enjoy the sights. You can walk all the way down the JR station, and grab lunch in one of the many, many restaurants around the area that cater for all budgets. Burn your lunch by taking a stroll around Kinrin Lake, a beautiful setting with trees and creeks, especially in autumn.
 
When you return to Beppu for the day, you might consider visiting a onsen to unwind and relax after a long day of walking.  I’d recommend Hyotan Onsen, a established public bath that includes a sand bath as well as hot spring waterfalls. Observe the rules of a public bath and respect the local culture. By the end of your session, reward yourself with an onsen-cooked egg or their famous egg pudding, made using a 100 year-old recipe.

Day 4 – Aso National Park
Say good by to Beppu and make your way towards Aso-Kuju National Park. This national park is huge, housing Kyushu’s highest peak, Mount Aso. Mount Aso is an active volcano, surrounded by a chain of other volcanic mountains. The view around this national park is just a sight to behold, so make sure to take your time driving down the winding roads and stopping by the main viewpoints along the way. Of course, you can even opt for a hike around the park, with trails available for all difficulty levels. Stop by Aso Volcano Museum where there will be an information booth to further advise you on the trails that are available for the day (sometimes, due to their active nature, some volcano tracks are closed due to toxic gases).
 
I would suggest putting a night up in Takachiho, a small town nestled in the mountains. This will give you an advantage to get to Takachiho Gorge tomorrow. Aside from that, Takachiho itself is a charming place, quiet with small restaurants, yakiniku (small BBQ eateries) and izakiyas (pub-like concept, but with very good food) for you to discover and enjoy. There are also shrines scattered around the area, and unlike the more popular ones, these will be more serene and quiet.

Day 5 – Takachiho Gorge
Start your day early to beat the crowd. Takachiho Gorge is open as early as 8am for visitors, and the first thing you should do is to direct yourself towards the boat rental station (you can find this on Google Map). Then rent yourself a boat, and off you go towards the narrow opening of the gorge. The small boats are rather easy to navigate, and to avoid crowding each boat is allowed about 30 minutes in the gorge. Enjoy the flowing waterfalls and the pillars of columnar basalt, marveling the natural beauty of the volcanic rocks and the still waters flowing down the river. After you’re done, you can take a relaxing stroll around the area, where there’s a small park and a shallow lake believed to have mystical origins.
For the rest of the day, opt to enjoy the quiet life of Takachiho, either by taking long walks around the town, or trying out a few small cafes and browsing at Takachihogamadase  Market.

Day 7 – Kagoshima and Ebino Plateau
Take a full day today to explore Kirishima Kinkowan National Park. About an hour’s drive from the main Kagoshima city, it is a park consisting of a few volcanic mountains and beautiful plateaus. This beautiful natural area has treks for all difficulty levels, suitable for all age ranges. As you approach this area you’ll see natural steam coming up from the cracks of rocks, and arid-looking volcanoes majestically surrounded by beautiful trees. As you trek or hike around the area, you’ll find small humble shrines, centuries-old cedar trees, maple and pine trees and a lot of wild flowers. If you’re lucky, you might even spot some wild life. In any case, it’s a beautiful place to spend the day.
The National Park center has restaurants for you to eat a late lunch, but if you prefer you can always drive towards the valleys and find something at the smaller towns. Then drive back to Kagoshima, and spend the evening exploring the port city.

Day 8 – Kagoshima
Kagoshima is a big port city, so it’s quite worthwhile exploring it for a day. At Yoshino Park, you can take a stroll around while enjoying the views of the Sakurajima mountain from the park’s observatory. Sakurajima mountain is the main volcano East of Kagoshima, and its dramatic terrains in the background of this busy port city is quite a sight to behold.
 
Although I didn’t personally go, I did know that visiting Sakurajima mountain is also worth doing. Surrounded by parks, shrines and observatories, it makes for a scenic trip slightly away from the city.

​Day 9 – Fukuoka
The drive from Kagoshima to Fukuoka is a long one, about 4 hours from city to city. That being said, it’s still a nice drive, given the roads are in excellent condition, and you can opt to stop by Kumomoto city along the way if you’d like. Otherwise, keep driving and make small stops for some ice cream, snacks or tea. You’ll reach Fukuoka by late afternoon. Given your budget you can either stay in the city center (more expensive) or find cheaper accommodations near the airport (the airport is in the city, so it’s not that far). Either way, it’s nice to spend the evening in Fukuoka, walking around the parks or along the river.
 
If you’re feeling up to it, you can pay a visit to Canal City, a large-scale mall with a man-made canal running through it. It’s an impressive building to observe the anime culture of Japan, with a giant arcade with all sorts of manga you could think of, and even Disney shops. Of course, the local’s love for Ghibli cartoons are apparent here as well.
 
At night, why not visit another onsen. One I would recommend is the Shingu Onsen, which is slightly away from the main city, but very well worth it in my opinion. They have both hot and cold baths, dry saunas, free salt scrubs, and a few beautiful outdoor pools overlooking the night sky. There is also a restaurant at the ground floor for you to enjoy a meal afterwards.

Day 10 – Fukuoka
Before you leave Kyushu, have a good last meal in Fukuoka. As I’ve mentioned previously, Fukuoka has no shortages of great places to eat! I’d recommend a mid-range sushi place called Hyotan sushi, right in the middle of the city. The queue is long but moves fast, and it is really worth the wait. The sushi chefs prepare the meals in front of you, and everything is fresh, delicious and reasonably priced (for Japan). Try the fried oysters and crab meat sushi, as well the uni. Other than that, the yatais (hawker-like popup dining shops) are also a good option.
 
Fukuoka Tower is also a good place to sightsee, albeit a little touristy. Around this tall tower is a park, and it is also located right by Fukuhama beach. It’s a nice place to walk around and people-watch. This should be a nice wrap-up for your Kyushu trip, and now it’s time to go home!

​Indonesia is an archipelago of more than 17,000 islands (wow!) together as a Republic. That being said, ‘exploring’ Indonesia could not be restricted to just seeing its most famous tourist destination, Bali, or checking out just one of its cities. Each main island is segregated into different regions, ethnicities, culture and geology, and so there is always something new to learn whether you’re in Sumatra, Sulawesi, Guinea, or in this case, East Java.
 
Surabaya, located in the North East of Java, is Indonesia’s second largest city. A bustling place with a dense population, it is a great starting point to explore East Java’s great outdoors - the mighty Mount Bromo volcanic cluster and the cool, scenic highlands of Malang/Batu. Juanda International Airport is where one would typical land in, the closest international access point to these areas. From there, you could choose to hire a driver (contacts of which I will share at the end of this article), or take a public bus which would be a much cheaper option (albeit with more restricted access points, I’m afraid), and even trains (which I would say is pretty comfortable).
 
Here are some places and activities I feel you must not miss when visiting Bromo and Malang/Batu, as well as a rough itinerary of how long you should spend on them.
 

Take Long Walks Around The Agricultural Villages Around Bromo
​​From Surabaya, it will take around 3 hours to reach the villages around Mount Bromo. Once you're there, you’ll be spellbound by the serene landscapes of the mountains - the fertile volcanic soil means that villagers around would naturally opt to venture into agriculture. Small houses line the narrow roads, the terraces are filled with vegetables growing beautifully, and pine trees dot the hillsides reminiscing somewhere in Europe, almost.
 
In the afternoons and evenings, there really aren’t many things to do in these small villages, but taking a walk around them is such a treat. Pack a jacket and a bottle of water and you’re all set to explore the small lanes and uphill roads that lead to scenic views. There are plenty of small warungs (local cafes) when you need to stop and chill, and make friends with locals.

​Catch the Sunrise Over Mount Bromo
Mount Bromo is technically not just a singular mountain. It is actually part of the Tengger volcanic mountains of the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National park ('Bromo' comes from the word Brahma, a Hindu God). Though perhaps being more famous due to its photogenic qualities, Mount Bromo is best viewed during sunrise, when the clouds descend and the early sunshine highlights the beautiful contours of the mountains.  This will of course require you to get up extremely early in the morning (as early as 2am, as sunrise is around 5am), ride a jeep and head to the sunrise viewpoint. Almost all the hotels in Bromo provide this service, and be sure to get in touch with your accommodation at least a couple days prior to book your spot.
 
After the sunrise, you can also opt to go towards the crater, where you can enjoy stupendous views of volcanic landscapes and beautiful green fields. The entire experience should be over my late morning, as the sun will then menace and it will be too hot to be in the vast, desert-like open space.
 
Tip: Mount Bromo is absolutely freezing especially when it is dark out. Be sure to bring a jacket, and even a hot Thermos so that you can enjoy the beautiful sunrise while sipping a warm beverage.

​Apple Picking In Organic Farms Around Malang/Batu
Malang/Batu used to be an entire city, but these days the two are seperated, albeit still next to each other. You can easily reach Malang via bus, train or a rented car. Malang is an old city, dubbed the Paris van Java due to its mild climate. Back then, it was extremely popular with the Dutch during the early days of colonialism. Now Malang is a home to many universities, most of its historical buildings are well preserved and it is well-known for its cafe culture.
 
Batu, on the other hand, is a popular area for agriculture, especially apple farming. Plenty of small, local farms offer the experience of apple-picking, and you can even take them home. In the early mornings with mild pleasant weather and hilly landscapes, spending your time at one of the organic farms browsing through trees and snacking on fresh apples is a pretty great way to spend your time.

​Coffee Tasting In The Many, Many Cafes Around Town
Javanese coffee is world-renowned. And so when you’re in the Javanese mountains with plenty of cafes serving single-origin coffee with elaborate care as to how they are grown and harvested, it’s almost a sin to not indulge in them. Most cafes around Malang/Batu have an extensive list of beans to choose from, and paired with wonderful weather, it is an enjoyable experience even for a novice like me.
 
I recommend Java Roasters cafe in Malang (beautiful interior, delicious meals, friendly staff) and De Potrek Cafe in Batu (amazing views, delicious affogato) if you’re wanting recommendations.

​Sample Delicious East Java’s Local Delicacies
If you’re not trying out local cuisines while you’re travelling, did you even travel? Indonesian food is an identity of its own, often recognised for its sambals and spices. In East Java especially, a popular favourite is the pecel, which are blanched vegetables dressed in smooth, mild peanut sauce (they give your usual salad dressing a run for its money). Malang, on the other hand, is also called ‘tempeh town’, and true to its name, tempeh is everywhere. Served in many different ways and variations, it’s definitely an experience to sample them.
 
Other notable local specialties are deep-fried duck (crispy skin!), beef rendang, soto and satay (all of them taste different from the Malaysian versions, so give them a shot!).

​Feast Your Eyes (Or Even Get One For Yourself!) On Local Batik and Art Pieces
Art is a beautiful exhibition of local culture, and East Java has plenty of it. Perhaps more notable for its batik, there are plenty of local stores that sell garments and ready-to-wear clothing made with specific Javanese batik prints. Even if you’re not interested in buying one, checking them out gives you an idea of the intricacy that goes into producing these pieces (and even what they actually mean).
 
Art pieces made from local artists are also depict the region’s history and lifestyle. The best part? Most of them are quite affordable to purchase.

Most of these shops open all day but close early at night, so it's best to get this done during the day.

Explore The Alluring Tiban Mosque
Tiban Mosque is located quite a distance away from the main Malang Town, so if you plan to go, be sure to allocate at least half a day for it. Getting a hired car or a rental would be the best option, as it is located away from the main city/town.
 
A beautiful religious complex constructed in the middle of a village, Tiban Mosque gains inspiration from Spanish, Buddhism and Eastern Europe architecture. It also serves as a religious school and the compounds are beautifully curated. A shrine takes centre stage outside the main building, although the interior of the mosque is also stunning. The entire area is beautifully shaded with palm trees and one could not deny the sense of zen this place invokes.
 
Legends had it that this mosque was built by djins in the middle of the night, because no one noticed the building of it during the day. The truth was the government had initially disapproved of the construction, and so villagers resorted to building it at night instead. The mosque provides an interesting offset of luxury from its surrounding, with tiles imported from Europe, chandeliers everywhere, a maze of beautiful rooms for different purposes and magnificent domes.
 
Entrance to the mosque is absolutely free, although donations are absolutely welcomed. Modest dressing is compulsory.

NOTE: If you're looking for a driver for your trip in and around Surabaya, you can always contact
​Dewo ( Phone/Whassap: +6285232157200, Facebook: Ajen Trip Bromo) who brought me around. He was nice and courteous and very helpful!

There are many reasons to pack your bags and escape to Bali. It seems to be the kind of island paradise that caters to an array of needs; to party, to isolate, to engross in culture, to seek spirituality, to do drugs, to surf, to hike, and to have a little wellness retreat. All reasons are valid, and Bali is big enough to be compartmentalized to meet these needs.
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In my earlier visits to Bali I spent them wandering around, trying to figure out its charm. These days, I go to Bali for a very specific purpose only; and that is to do yoga and to eat vegan food. Ubud, the central area of the island is the mecca of veganism on this side of the world, and over the years it has grown to become the ultimate wellness hub. There are yoga studios, spiritual retreats and vegan restaurants everywhere in the area, dotted along the tiny streets and in between lush green paddy fields. Ubud is the epicenter of hippies, environmentally-conscious communities (and some borderline fanatics), and Yoga-loving, clean-eating, chakra-aligning enthusiasts.
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Over the years I have enjoyed exploring vegan restaurants and cafes here, and this time around I'd love to share some reviews of places I've been to and eaten at, should you ever feel like indulging your inner vegan-self when you are in Ubud, Bali.
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1.) Moksa Plant-Based Restaurant
Puskesmas Ubud II, Gg. Damai, Sayan, Kec. Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571, Indonesia
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In a nutshell, if you only have time to go to one vegan restaurant, then say no more. This is the place. Set in a higher elevation from the rest of the town which provides a beautiful breeze, Moksa is a farm-to-table concept restaurant – meaning that they have a farm just next to it, and pretty much everything you consume there is grown organically next door. The ambience is chill, the hospitality amazing, and I found myself sitting there for almost four hours eating non-stop while writing on my laptop, set in the beautiful green garden.

Now let’s talk about the food. Lead by Chef Made Runatha, the menu is enticing, imaginative and extensive – think lasagna made with cashew cheese, burger patties made from jackfruit (the ‘vegan’ meat, as they call it), eggplant rendang (if you’ve never had rendang, you’re missing out on life), and vegan ‘ribs’ and mash (made by juicy, flavourful tempeh). I started off my meal with a tall cold glass of coconut water, and had a plate of the vegan ‘ribs’. The tempeh was braised in home-made BBQ sauce, retaining its juicy interior and barbecue-y taste. They temped slices were served on a bed of creamy sweet potato mash and a side salad.

Another dish I'd highly recommend is the Mongolian BBQ crispy cauliflower. The texture of the crispy veg is perfect against the creamy sweet potato mash, and the marinade was tangy, sweet with a little bit of spice.
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PS: They also have morning markets every Wednesday and Saturday, as well as yoga classes (you can check the schedule on their official website)

2.) The Seeds Of Life
Jalan Gautama No.2, Ubud, Gianyar, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571, Indonesia

If you want to take it up a notch, why not try a vegan, raw restaurant? Yes, you read that right. Nothing is cooked over fire in this cozy little place (the concept is that raw food retains more nutrients), but despite that, the menu is exciting and extensive. They have a whole separate menu for jamu (health shots made from fresh herbs and spices) and drinks, and then a whole menu for meals. And let’s not forget the dessert counter with so many delicious, raw and vegan delicacies such as energy balls, carrot cakes and vegan cheese cakes.
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But isn't raw food boring? Fret not, because the Seeds of Life are inventive. In fact, it’s so inventive that I came here 3 times just so that I could try a little bit of everything, from the breakfast menu, to brunch, and lunch. I had a dehydrated papaya crepe stuffed with ‘nutella’ which was such a treat, a vegan version of the classic breakfast made of scrambled corn ‘eggs’, stuffed mushrooms, marinated spinach, eggplant 'bacon‘ and live bread, a plate of raw lasagna made from cashew cheese, avocado, mango, tomato, beetroot and spinach, and cauliflower ‘buffalo wings’ which was served raw, slathered with spicy harissa and vegan cheese sauce.
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The desserts and juices are also extensive, and the cafe even has a separate tonic bar with all sorts of health concoctions. This cafe is also located right in the center of town, so it’s not hard to find.
If you’ve never tried eating raw before, The Seeds Of Life is definitely a place to start.

3.) Sage
Jl. Nyuh Bulan No. 1, Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud

Before we get to the food, let’s talk about the interior and setting. It’s away from town, in a small building painted white and sapphire blue. Kind of like something you’d see in Santorini. There are large windows which means it’s not stuffy inside, and the seating style is cozy, making full use of the nooks and crannies of the building.

Sage doesn’t necessarily boast a long list of menu like Moksa, but it certainly has a delicious line of vegan options to choose from. The ‘pulled pork’ jackfruit burrito seems to be a fairly popular choice from the blogs online, and so that was what I ordered. It was delicious. The jackfruit was somehow cured to give it a different, spicier taste, and the texture was sturdy, almost like very soft meat. The burrito was stuffed with rice, cashew cheese, tomatoes and cilantro, served with a refreshing homemade tomato salsa and nut cream dip.

I also had a small shot of a jamu (health shot made from ginger, turmeric and other fresh herbs). It was pretty intense in flavor, although there is a warm feeling in the stomach after, which I guess is a sign that the jamu is good for your digestion. After the meal I tried out a cold glass of coconut milk latte, and although I’m not really a coffee fan I’d say that it was a great pick-me-up especially in the hot midday Bali weather.
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Sage also serves dessert, and although I didn’t order any because I was full, the girl who sat at the table next to me claimed that their coconut cake was the best she has ever had, and she has been eating them almost every day for 2 weeks (in hindsight, maybe it's just low self-control?)

4. Alchemy
Jl. Penestanan Kelod No. 75, 80571, Ubud
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​If you’re looking for a great breakfast or brunch spot, look no further than Alchemy. What I like about this café is that it provides both a savoury and sweet spread for a build-your-own breakfast bowl. The sweet option comes in the form of a smoothie bowl, where you can pick your base and up to five selection of toppings, consisting of fruits, nuts and granola. For the savoury bowl, there is an array of raw salad, hot cakes and dipping sauce. I personally love the kale salad, fresh and appropriately massaged to ensure that the greens are tender and well marinated. Finish you breakfast or brunch feast with some good coffee and a delicious choices of vegan, raw cakes and dessert bars.

5. Sayuri
Jl. Sukma Kesuma No.2, Peliatan, Ubud
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​If you’re thinking about when to go to Sayuri, here’s a tip – go there for lunch! There are not a lot of lunch spots in Ubud that has air-conditioning, and if there is one downside to Bali, it’s that the afternoons are hot and humid (you’ll sweat just by lifting your arm haha).
But airconditioning aside, Sayuri has a lovely menu for lunch, consisting of raw meals and heated ones. Try the ‘smoked salmon’ sandwich, where the ‘salmon’ is actually dehydrated, smoked papaya – it’s divine. For a fresher take, indulge in some zuchhini pad thai where the noodles are made from raw zucchini and served with a mild sambal for that extra kick. A Korean BBQ jackfruit burger set is deeply satisfying with a meaty patty.
Sayuri also has some great dessert choices, and I highly recommend the banoffee pie if it’s available. Nothing quite like a cold fresh slice of it on a sunny day.

6. Zest
Jl. Raya Penestanan No.8, Ubud
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​Zest perhaps has one of the most beautiful settings for a restaurant in Ubud. Set on top of a hill next to a gorgeous temple, it has an semi-outdoor setting, with fairy lights, large windows, plush cushions and quiet corners for a serene dining experience. The notable mention from the starts list would be the crispy roasted baby potatoes, fluffy on the inside with a crispy exterior. The mains vary from local delights to international palettes. In particular, I love the jackfruit steak and mama’s meatballs with crispy polenta. Seasonal delights are also available – I absolutely enjoyed their durian waffles.
Zest is great to go to for both lunch and dinner, either one giving you a different kind of dining experience.

​7. Dharma
Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 45 Ubud
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Dharma is a wonderful, cheaper option for a smoothie bowl. Being cheaper than most breakfast bars, it doesn’t skimp on tastes at all, with a few delicious options to delight your taste buds. They also offer delicious refreshing drinks and juices, which are a balm for hot afternoons.

8. Ubud Yoga Center
Jl. Raya Singakerta no. 108, Banjar Dangin Labak, Jembatan Nyuh Kuning 80571 Ubud
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​Mainly a yoga center located beautifully next to a river, Ubud Yoga Center also has a wonderful café located in the ground floor of the building. The interior is open and cozy, with large swings, plush chairs and wide wooden tables to sit around. It’s not a full vegan café (they also serve chicken and fish), but the vegan/vegetarian options are variable.
To start, get a glass of one of their refreshing smoothies to ease you up for your meal. Vegan options include both Western and local delights, and the pesto lasagna and zucchini pasta are both exceptional. The lasagna is a ‘deconstructed’ version of this Italian dish, with a green pesto sauce and large sheets of pasta weaved around spinach, peas and nuts. The zuchhini pesto is made using zucchini zoodles (processed through a spiralizer to look like noodles), tossed in pesto, mint, spinach, nuts and pickled vegetables.

From Van (where I was prior to Kars), there are no direct flights to get to Kars, a small town sat somewhere near the Turkey-Armenia land border. A bus is the next best option, and at Van’s bus terminal you could easily get yourself a bus ticket that travels the next day (there is only one bus from Van to Kars per day). The bus is modern, comfortable and heated, while the roads are well maintained so you could expect a pretty smooth ride. The entire drive from Van to Kars takes about 7 hours with very minimal stops, so pack yourself some snacks and a light lunch.

As I arrived in Kars, it was late and freezing cold with no taxis in sight, so I had to hitch a ride with a wonderful girl and her father to the hotel (it’s a very small town, everyone lives close to each other). At a first glance my thoughts on this town was this; freezing cold with traces of Soviet Union. The temperature was a cool -13 degC, and the buildings had a distinct architecture, none like what I’ve seen in other places in Turkey. There were statues of animals by the streets, and buildings made of bleak dark stones. Nights are extremely harsh with icy pavements and frozen trees, but the daylight will allow you to immerse yourself in this quaint place filled with history and wonderful people.
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There are a few things not to miss out when you’re in Kars, and here are my recommendations.

1. Spend a day exploring Ani, an ancient Armenian city
If there is one thing you need to do when in Kars, it is certainly this. Ani is a large compound of what used to be an ancient city, a place that at its peak, was home to 100 000 people. It was eventually abandoned and what is now left are beautiful ruins set in the most enchanting, scenic landscape by the valleys of a river (this river is also the natural border between Turkey and Armenia, and you can easily see Armenia from Ani).
The city fortress is the majestic stone walls still intact for the most part, and as you go through them you’ll find yourself in a vast space with small lanes which would lead you to a variety of monuments, like cathedrals, churches, mosque and even remains of what used to be common houses. You’ll need at least half a day to explore this place, and since it is basically the outdoors, be prepared for a windy/rainy/cold day.
Ani is about an hour drive from Kars town. To get there, you’ll need either a car, a bus or a taxi. To get a taxi or a bus, easily ask your hotel to arrange one for you, as they know plenty of contacts.

2. ​Have lunch by Cildir lake, and maybe go on a horse-carriage ride across its frozen surface
Cildir lake is located almost an hour away from Kars town, and this place is especially recommended during the winter. When it’s really cold (and believe me, it gets extremely cold here in the winter), the lake freezes over, becoming a popular winter wonderland destination for locals. Imagine a beautiful vast white space lined with pine trees, and horse carriages available should you ever want to experience a ride across the flat ice surface of the lake.
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There are also a few restaurants that serve lunch using fish from the lake, and you’d be missing out if you don’t sample some. I deeply enjoyed a beautifully prepared trout, simply fried with a some lemon wedges and served with pickles, a hot cup of tea, all while nestled against a heater inside the comforts and warmth of the restaurant, the glaring white landscape a sight to behold from the windows.

3. Escape the cold and eat a hot serving of kunefe
What on earth is a kunefe? It is a type of dessert popular in Turkey, made with layers of cheese, shredded filo, different kinds of nuts and a healthy dose of syrup, all served spanking hot with the cheese and oozing treat for your tastebuds. It is great anytime of the year, but it is especially good in winter, when all you need is a warm hug in a form of a comforting dessert such as this one.

Kunefes can normally be found anywhere in the country at any good bakeries, but in Kars there is a well established place called Kars My Kunefe that you just simply have to try. It’s a large café with efficient service, and they make nothing else but kunefes, with all kinds of varieties and sizes for you try. I tried at least 3 different types and they were all marvelous. Each order also comes with a large pot of tea, a perfect compliment for this sweet treat.

Location: Kars My Kunefe, Yusufpaşa, Atatürk Cd. 58/A, 36000 Merkez/Kars, Turkey

4. Walk around the Old Quarter of Kars town
The Old Quarter of Kars is by no means as big as the ones you’d find in Antalya or other bigger cities, but it is charming in its own way. The central of the Old Quarter is a river called the Kars Stream, and surrounding this river are the Kar Castle, a park, a beautiful stone bridge, an old mosque and an Armenian church. It’s a beautiful place for a nice long walk, and this Old Quarter eventually connects to the rest of the town, where you can see Soviet-influenced old structures, large mansions used to be inhabited by privileged Armenians and local cheese shops selling Kars cheese.

The last stop in my coastal drive was Antalya, a large city located in the SouthWest of the coast. Driving from Kas, it took about two hours to reach this fifth-most-populated-city of Turkey. The drive was perhaps the most beautiful out of the entire trip, long winding roads wrapped along the coastline, with absolutely stunning views of the sea and cliffs. Along the way you’ll find even more small, secluded beaches, and some of them even have sunbeds arranged beautifully by the water. As you approach the city, you’ll realise that it’s much more vibrant and much more crowded that everything else you’ve driven into so far, and so begins your adventure in this seaside city.
 
There is plenty to do in Antalya, but these are some of the top things I did and would recommend.

1. Take a Walk Around The Old City
The Old City is much larger in Antalya and a lot more elaborate compared to other places along the coast. That being said, it’s a great idea to find hotels close or inside the Old Town if you’re staying in Antalya, as everything else is walkable within the area. You could see Hadrian’s gate, a large stone entrance extended by giant ancient walls that were built in honour of the Roman Emperor Hadrian during his visit here.
 
Antalya was once ruled by the Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Selcuks, Ottomans and even Italians, so walking around the Old Town is a great opportunity to see the mix of all kinds of influences throughout these eras, through gorgeous old architectures and food. I easily spent almost an entire day exploring the cobbled streets, main square and old ruins in this area, and you should too.

2. Witness the  majestic Duden waterfalls
It’s magnificent. Really. It’s a gigantic waterfall spewing freshwater from a high cliff right into the ocean. A sight to behold, Duden waterfalls is located at the edge of the city in a beautiful stretch of park. A short walk should lead you to a beautiful view of the waters gushing out of the cleavages of the rocks, into the dark sea below. There are plenty of corners for you to stand in to marvel at it, despite the consistent crowd. And once you’re done, get your appetite in order and walk towards…

3. Eat at Sirali Kebap
Sirali Kebap. I implore you to eat here if you’re in Antalya. Look, there are plenty of delicious cafes and restaurants around the city, sure. But Sirali Kebap was just a step above. Known for its meats, the place uses exclusively orange tree wood for grilling, giving off a beautiful fragrant smokiness to all your carnivorous endeavours here. The menu is long and extensive, the waiters are well informed about what’s being served in each dish, and everything I ordered was meticulous and delicious (and there was a lot of food!).
 
I’d recommend sampling a few different mezes (try the ones that you don’t usually see in other places), and go for the Chef’s Special Kebap. It was everything and more - charred meat with a medium rare interior, pickled vegetables on the side, and warm bread to wrap your meat with.
 
Sirali Kebap is slightly more expensive than average, but I assure you - worth it.

4. Hang out at Konyaalti Beach
Konyaalti Beach is a little outside the city and a bit of a drive, but it is Antalya’s most famous beach. Well, it’s more of a seafront playground that beach. Sure you can hang out by the water, but there are also plenty of cafes and bars lined up along this very long stretch of shingle beach. The view is also quite something, as at the edge of the beach is an impressive range of mountains that could be enjoyed fully from the viewpoint.

Konyaalti is a popular hangout spot for locals especially in the evenings, so expect some crowd.

5. Hike up Chimaera Mountain and see the natural fire vents 
Now, this is not exactly within Antalya city, but I'd be remiss to not share my experience seeing the natural fire vents in the Chimaera mountain. Located about an hour from the city, these fire vents are the result of natural methane released from the subsurface, causing consistent fire vents scattered around the forest floor of the mountain. You'll need to hike up the well paved trail to see them, and they are best seen at night as the contrast between the darkness, the fires and the starry sky is a sight to behold.

The bonus would be the cats putting up a residence near these fires, acting like they own the place! 

Now that I’ve wrapped up my Turkish coastal drive experience, it’s time to board the flight and head towards somewhere much, much cooler - East Turkey! 
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The regions of East Turkey are not very well-known among international travelers. But this is precisely what makes it a wonderful adventure if you’re looking for one. Unlike the other more popular places around Turkey, the Eastern region is much colder, and bares a different side of Turkey historically. Due to its location bordering Armenia, Georgia, Iran and Syria, all of these different influences can be seen integrated in the culture, architecture and history of this region.
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East Turkey can be reached from Istanbul easily using the many direct flights available, and the same goes if you plan to come from the Turkish Riviera. I began my exploration of the Eastern area by taking a flight from Antalya to Van, a beautiful town located to the largest lake in Turkey, covered in snow.

1. Explore the beautiful Akdamar Island and marvel the old Armenia Cathedral
The first thing I’d recommend doing upon your arrival in Van is to visit the Akdamar Island. Good weather is extremely crucial to get the most of this experience, so I recommend going as soon as the weather allows you to. You can take a taxi or rent a car and drive to the xxx jetty, where boats are available to take you to this island located in the middle of Van Lake. The boats have no fixed schedule – they go when the occupants are full.

Akdamar Island used to be a retreat of the Armenian kings back in the day, and as you approach its shores you’ll see first and foremost a beautiful, ancient Armenian church located on top of the hill. I went on a snowy day, and it was the most beautiful place, covered knee-deep in fresh white powder. Seagulls fly freely over the skies, wild hares gallop from one large rock to another, and there is a small café with proper toilets for your vanity.
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The Armenian church is a spectacular piece of architecture and very much different than other churches other parts of Turkey. You should take time to explore in and around the church grounds, as every angle is beautifully constructed, complimenting its surroundings. You’ll need at least half a day for this, and maybe even longer.

2. Calm your soul by the serene Van Lake
Van Lake is the biggest lake in Turkey and Armenian highlands, formed by tectonically-induced subsidence (sorry, but I’m a geologist and I can’t help but say nerdy things like this). There is only one type of fish that inhabits these waters, and it is actually a saline lake.
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Especially beautiful during winter when the shores are covered in snow, be sure to bask in the serenity of the lake. There are plenty of small parks and stopovers available for you to do this. One day, it snowed early in the morning and it was just extremely beautiful to sit in the café of my hotel and watch the white flakes float about in the wind, with the cold, calm waters of Van Lake in view.

3. Feast on a proper Van breakfast
I’ve been to Turkey twice and to many places, and I have to say that a Van breakfast is one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had. More specifically, an all-day breakfast menu at a small restaurant called Matbah-i Van (instagram: @matbahivan). The place is lovely and cosy and warm from the cold outside, the service is friendly and helpful, and the food celebrates all the local produce Van has to offer. From local honey to home-made fruit preserves, white-as-snow goat’s cheese to a delightful liver omelet, different types of warm bread and fresh salads, everything on the table was a feast for the senses.

Although none of the staff speaks English, with the help of Google Translate it is possible to spell out an order, and I highly recommend ordering what the waiter suggests for you, according to their specialties and local supply.
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4. Climb up Van Castle and enjoy the spectacular view
An early morning hike up the hill that houses Van Castle should definitely be on your list. If it’s snowing, ensure that your footwear is suitable, as the path up and down is extremely slippery. But all that trouble pays off when you get to the grounds of the castle, a beautiful, gothic-like structure encircled by flocks of crows in the chilly wind.
Built by the ancient Urartus (who were ancestors to modern-day Armenians), it overlooks the town plains and Van Lake, and on the beautiful snowy day I was there it really felt like I was at the top of the world. There is also an old ancient mosque perched within the castle walls, although it is now no longer used for prayers.
Bring snacks or a hot flask of drink if you wish, and you’ll need a few hours to really enjoy the splendors of the castle and its surrounding areas.

5. Check out the exclusive Van cats
I’ll be honest. This is a weird one, and not even something I thought of doing prior to my arrival in Van.
However, a very prominent thing you’ll realize about Van is how much the people love their cars. They. Love. Their. Cats. You’ll see pictures of their cats in frames hung in restaurants and shops, embodied in fridge magnets and souvenirs, and imageries of Van citizen doing daily routines with – yes, you guessed it – their cats in the background.

You see, Van cats are a very special breed. A type of long-haired sub-species, they are as white as snow, with most of them having either blue eyes or mismatched coloured-eyes. They are also notable for loving water, known to have swam around in Van Lake.
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Over the years their numbers have diminished, and a large research center has been dedicated in learning and breeding them again. You can in fact visit this research center, and for a very small entrance fee you can play with them and visit the many cat gardens and cat facilities in the area. They’re extremely cute and fluffy, and strangely enough, I think this is definitely a place you should visit for an hour or two if you’re in Van. 

​There is something extremely liberating about long drives along a beautiful coast. You roll the windows down, the ocean breeze hits your face, with the sea open and wide that it makes you envision a freedom. It gets even better if there are small coastal towns and villages for you to stop along the way to sample their slow-paced lifestyles, taste their local delights and watch sunsets in the quiet of the waves lapping onto the shores.
If you like all these things, then a drive along the coasts of South Turkey, otherwise known as the Turkish riviera, is definitely something you should do.

​In general, the Turkish coast drive spans as long as Izmir to Antalya, but if you have limited time and would like to not rush through it, you can always compress it down to a drive from Fethiye to Antalya instead. In fact, you’ll find that most people would agree that this part of the coast is more beautiful. I took a flight from Istanbul to Dalaman airport, which is the closest available airport to Fethiye. It’s called a ‘coastal drive’ after all, so you’ll do well to rent yourself a car and pick it up at the airport which will buy you more freedom.

1. Take A Long Walk By The Pier
My first stop, Fethiye, is a large port town with a relaxed atmosphere. I'd say that staying here for at least 2 days would give you ample time to see its main sights, although of course you can stay even longer if you wish to relax even more. The first order of business is to take a nice long walk around the neighbourhood, and so I recommend finding places to stay by the water because that’s where the livelihood of the town is. Even in winter, which was the season I was visiting in, you’ll see people hanging out by the pier, youths cycling down the blue-paved roads and children gleefully enjoying themselves at the playground. The air is crisp, and the sea water is a calm dark blue, with beautiful snow-capped mountains in the background. Yachts bob by the shore, and if you walk along the pier, it will naturally lead you towards the Old Town.

2. Visit The Old Town
In the Old Town, you’ll find a fish market, a popular place to go and sample Fethiye’s fresh seafood. If you’re a foreigner, expect the price to be marked up a little. Outside the fish market, you’ll find lots of small cafes dotted along the small streets – why not try out a bowl of lentil soup, or eat a spread of home-style dishes in a mom-and-pop lokanta? Tea shops are also available, which are small shops serving hot tea with some bread. I have recommendations on what you should definitely eat here.
In these coastal towns, Fethiye included, you’ll see a seamless blend of the ancient and new. Right smack in the middle of the modern town with modern architecture, you’ll find a sacorphagi. A sarcophagi, simply put, is an ancient tomb, and you’ll see plenty of these as you drive along. The ancient Lycians (who inhabited these coastlines centuries ago) believed that the living and dead should co-exist together, and so you’ll find these sarcophagis in the middle of a bustling town or village. Take a good half day to just walk around and explore the area, while sampling some local cafes.

3. See the Amintas Rock Tombs
Another great exhibition of Lycians are the Amintas Rock Tombs. These are virtually impressive, located in the cliffs of the hills in the back of the town. At a first glance, they actually resemble Petra in Jordan, although at a much smaller scale. It’s awe-inspiring to think about the amount of work it takes to carve monuments straight out of the face of a granitic hill. The tombs require a small entrance fee, although I must say it is definitely worth it, because not only do you get to admire some ancient history, but you’ll also get a sprawling view of Fethiye from a lookout point. It’s located at the edge of the city, and a few hours is more than enough for this.

4. Oludeniz Beach
You’ll be spoilt with beaches everywhere you drive along the Turkish coast, but around Fethiye, one of the most beautiful would be the Oludeniz beach. It’s a long stretch of sand capped at the edge by a range of mountains, and in the summer this place would be crowded. In winter, it’s best if viewed from its lookout point – you’ll get to enjoy the dark and mysterious Aegean sea as it splashes against the pale-coloured rugged coasts of the region.
To get the most out of Fethiye, I’d recommend staying there for at least 2-3 days, although I opted for a much shorter duration and it still was quite adequate to see key things in surrounding the town.  My next stop driving out of Fethiye was Kas, a small charming village town a couple of hours from Fethiye, and you can read about that in the next article, which you can read here!

Where To Eat: Go here for recommendations for what I think you should eat in Turkey, in general. 

​If you ask me, I’d tell you that my personal highlight of the entire coastal drive was Kas. I suppose I’ve always enjoyed small villages more than bustling towns, so if you’re like me, I think you’ll find Kas a complete gem. Located at the corner of an extended peninsula of the Turkish coast, it’s a small hilly village with small streets lined with tiny cafes, charming shops and so, so, so many lemon trees. Kas is also a great center point to other places worth seeing around the area – I’ll tell you more about this.

1.  Marvel The Old Quarter
​In almost every town in the coast, you’ll find that each of them has an Old Town, or Old Quarter. After all, Turkey has had a long history of civilization over centuries, so it’s only natural to find these old remnants in every new population, embedded as part of the modern-day habitat. Kas is no exception, and walking around the Old Quarter, you’ll find yourself going through narrow cobbled streets with old houses now turned into cafes, pubs, shops and bakery. Take your time exploring the corners of this area, and if you fancy, drop by a café or two to sample local coffee and baked goods.I’d recommend Gado café, and although the cakes weren’t that amazing to me, its high point is a guy who sits and play the piano for hours, and it’s lovely to sit with a hot cup and listen to. There are also seriously adorable cats roaming roaming around.

2. See The Most Beautiful Beach In Turkey (Allegedly)
Beauty is subjective, I know, but there’s something to be said if almost everyone is consistently saying it. Such is the reputation of Kaputas beach, a narrow little beach between two high coastal cliffs. It’s a pebbly beach, and I think what makes it beautiful is the aqua green waters of the Aegean Sea against the pale beige outcrops that makes for a very mesmerizing view. In the summer this beach would be crowded, but in the winter it is almost empty, so you’d do well to make your way down the cliffs and sit for a while on the pebbles watching the sun go by. You can also see Greece from the beach, which is always a treat.

3. Explore The Kayakoy Ghost Town
​There’s a long list of things you can do in and around Kars, but if you’re stripped down for time and can only choose very few, then please, let this be one of those things.
The Kayakoy Ghost Town is a basically and abandoned town that dates back to the 14th century. In the beginning, it was a harmonious town consisting of Anatolian Muslims and Greek Orthodox Christians. However, during the Greco-Turkish war, a population exchange occurred, and people were forced to gradually abandoned this town that had been home to them for centuries.
Today, walking around this abandoned town really does have an eerie feeling to it. The stone walls and homes are empty, the large churches echo with voids and you can see the old schools and chapels, eaten by time. I took almost half a day walking around the area as it is very large, but you could easily spend longer here if you’d like.

4. Bask In The Sunset At Hallenistic Theatre
​A walking distance from Kas center, this amphitheatre won’t be the best you had ever seen, but it does boast a beautiful sunset facing the sea. Back in its days of glory, it could house 4000 spectators, but now it’s a beautifully aged monument. People come to hang out with friends and dates, and it’s generally quiet as the sun begin to set and you can watch it all while sitting on the ancient seats, with Meis Island (Greece) in view.

5. Enjoy A day trip to the village of Kalkan
​Kalkan is a small village a short drive away from Kas, and I love the chill of it. Fishermen’s boats are anchored by the jetty, and you see locals hanging out by the water, smoking and fishing the day away. Walking down the quiet lanes, you’ll see almost a glimpse of Greek-influenced structures – mosques that look like they were inspired by Santorini, their domes and walls whitewashed against the clear blue sky. The restaurants are beautiful and honours the local specialty of the place. 

6. Visit Demre to See The Ancient Town of Myra, But Also To Eat A Lot Of Oranges
​What?? Another ancient town?? I know, I know, but seriously, they’re beautiful to explore and there are plenty of them along your coastal drive, it’s almost a crime if you don’t keep visiting them until you’re head starts spinning.
Myra is an ancient Lycian town located in Demre, and you can spend a few hours roaming around this large space admiring its rock tombs and large ampitheatre. I love how the ruins are well maintained, and if you come during the winter it’s almost empty, so you’ll feel like Indiana Jones sans the villains chasing after you.
But wait. I haven’t even told you the best part yet. Myra is located in the current-day orange agricultural area. What this means is when the season is right, you’ll drive through miles and miles of orange trees, their ripened fruits a beautiful color against the dark green leaves. The locals don’t mind if you pluck a few, and there are orange juice stalls here and there where you can enjoy a fresh glass of orange juice for as low as 10 liras. 

7. Try Local Produce
​This should actually be in the to-do list of any place you ever visit! Trying local produce straight from the fresh food market is great way to get acquainted with the local way of life. You’ll learn about what they grow locally, what’s in season and when, how they eat and if you’re lucky, you’ll get to chat with everyday people doing their everyday chores.
In Kars, I had the pleasure of enjoying strawberries, oranges and lemon which were in season in winter. I bought some to eat at home with local yoghurt, and even cooked a proper breakfast using all the produce from the market. It’s quite fun trying out produce, but preparing them in my own personal way.

Where To Eat: You can find all my recommendations on what to eat here, but specifically in Kas, Zula Meyhane for a wonderful dinner with a view, Smiley’s for delicious fresh seafood, the small fruit juice stall in front of Myra ruins, Good cafe for some coffee and music.

​Before I ever visited Turkey, I have always had an impression that Turkish food is mainly just kebabs. I blame this on the stigma that was set on me by Turkish restaurants in the city I live in, Kuala Lumpur. Often, Turkish food is bundled up as middle eastern, when of course this is far from true. For starters, Turkey is located in Europe and Asia, different continents altogether. This broad area means that there are amalgamations of all sorts when it comes to their cuisine – some influences from Greece, some from Middle East, and some from Eastern Europe.  So when you dine in Turkey, expect a variation of things that would tantalize your tastebuds (and yes, not limited to kebabs!). Here are some delicacies that I think you should at least try when visiting.

1. A proper Turkish breakfast
A Turkish breakfast is a feast. They come in a set platter, with small servings of a little bit of everything – think different kinds of cheeses, local honey, fresh selection of salads, breads, fruit preserves, and eggs prepared in your choice. The classic Turkish breakfast allows you to start the day by sampling local produce, and different regions often have different highlights, like a specialty cheese or a specific way of making eggs. Warm cups of Turkish tea will be accompanying your breakfast feast.

2. Lentil Soup
​It doesn’t sound very exciting, but truly, if there are only a few things you get to try and eat in Turkey, one has to be their lentil soups. The two generally popular types of lentil soup are the mild yellow and mercimek corbasi, the former a mild warming soup and the latter its slightly spicier sibling (my favourite!). Lentil soup is a popular choice for breakfast, as an entre before a meal and as a warming bowl during the cold winter months. The best part is that they are cheap and accessible pretty much anywhere around the country, especially in a local lokanta.

3. Kunefe
​Kunefe is a popular dessert found in Turkey, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Palestine, Qatar. Saudi Arabia, Syria, UAE and Bahrain (did I leave anyone out??). In general it is mainly made by from shredded phyllo, cheese, nuts and syrup, although there are actually variations of this anatomy, using different kinds of cheese, nuts, layering and ratio. Kunefe is very decadent, and the best way to enjoy it is at the café or restaurant itself, where they are prepared fresh and served piping hot for you.
In Turkey, you’ll find that kunefe is a beloved delicacy. Every town, every village will have a kunefe place, and you’ll often see these places with crowds of locals taking their time to share this dessert with their loved ones. A larger kunefe place will even have a kunefe menu, where you can choose your own variation you’d like to try, or even the house special. I succumbed to having one (or two!) almost every night, and let me tell you, they were worth all the calories.

4. Seafood
​With long coast lines, a metropolitan revolving around the Bosphorus river and beautiful lakes, it’s no surprise that the Turks know their seafood. Sandwiched between the Black Sea and the Aegean Sea, the variations of fish and shellfish are a sight to behold, and an influence from the Mediterranean means that these are often prepared simply, relying on the freshness of the produce.
If you’re wanting to give them a try, a good way is to always ask the restaurant what their specialties are – sometimes it’s their seafood mezes, sometimes it’s their trout, sometimes there are specific kinds of crabs available in the season. Honestly, I’ve never had a bad seafood dish in all my days in Turkey.

5. Local fruits
​Turkey is blessed with so many agricultural produce throughout its seasons. It is abundant with fruits and vegetables, thanks to the weather and fertile volcanic soils. You get to sample these of course when you eat at restaurants, but others, such as fruits, deserve no other special treatment other than you buying them fresh off the market to enjoy.
If you can, pop into a local market and see what’s fresh and in season. Enjoy oranges straight off the trees. Buy a pack of strawberries and dip them in some local yoghurt. In a way, you are also supporting local farmers and small businesses too.

6. Lahmacun and Pide
​Lahmacun and pide are two siblings of the pizza family. The base is bread, where lahmacun is a thin crust and pide is a thicker choice made with a moat-shaped dough, and the toppings are meat, a mix of meat and vegetables, or cheese. Both can be easily found in their joints almost everywhere, kind of like how you would find pizza joints. The best kinds are always prepared in a woodfire oven, and although I have love for both of them, lahmacun is easily my favourite.
Lahamacun and pide are what you would call street food – cheap, easily accessible and generally pleasing. In fact, it is a rite of passage for anyone visiting Turkey.

7. Jacket potato
​I mean, a baked jacket potato is good anywhere, right? Turkey is no exception! Locally known as ‘kumpir’, jacket potatoes are beloved within the culture, and you’ll find jacket potato stalls especially in Istanbul with an array of toppings, from pickled vegetables, chili-style gravy, meat, cheese and others. Relatively cheap, they are amazing for quick meals or even a snack. Be sure to try a kumpir at least once when you’re in Turkey.

8. Kokorec
​Now we’re in the realm of something that is considered an ‘acquired taste’ (which translates to: some people like it, others absolutely can’t brain it). Kokorec is basically grilled chopped innards – this includes hearts, lungs, kidneys of cows or goats – cooked over an open fire with spices, chopped and mixed with some vegetables and stuffed into a toasted baguette. This sandwich is enjoyed by locals, and I find it quite nice albeit a little strong sometimes.
It’s one of those traditional delicacies that I feel worth trying if you’re in the Turkey, especially f you’re a fan of innards/tripes.

9. Meze
​Mezes are basically tapas. They’re small platters of appetizers commonly offered by restaurants, and you enjoy them with some bread before your main plates arrive. There are literally so many mezes to choose from all over the country, some seafood-based, some vegetarian-based and some showcasing local delights of the area. Ask the restaurants for their specials and give them a try!
Whichever you choose, be sure to sample a little of each for the experience. My favourites are often the vegetarian ones, like a freshly made eggplant dip, hummus, and artichokes. However, the seafood ones are also often a delight, like a cured mackerel or anchovies in olive oil. Honestly, I don’t think you can ever go wrong with mezes.

10. Cheese
It’s Europe after all, so expect a lot of cheese. And a lot of good cheese. As mentioned previously, a good way to sample local cheese would be through ordering a Turkish breakfast which would include some samples of cheese, but otherwise, all your dairy needs can be easily met in the widely available cheese chops, supermarkets and morning markets. Moreover, each region has their own specialty cheese for you to try.
If I have to recommend, I’d say go for the goat cheese, which are white as snow, melts like butter and is not too salty. Kars cheese from the region of Kars is also beautifully made. For snacks, try the string cheese, as they are easy to pack, tasty on their own with simple flavours.

11. Kofte & Kebabs
​Of course it has to be in the list, it’s too obvious! Turkey has had a long history over centuries, and some parts of it involved ‘acquaintances’ with Arabia, through the spread of Islam and culture. As such, you could only expect the food would be involved in this evolution too, and the love of grilled meats in the form of wrapped goodness is no exception. In your life you’ve probably had many koftes and kebabs in various places, and Turkey should be added in that list. Another street food staple, the appeal of koftes and kebabs lie in its simplicity, accessibility and comfort. You can’t go wrong with a meat and bread combo, usually.

12. Sample Dishes at a Lokanta
A Lokanta is basically a mixed rice place. There are dishes on display, sometimes as little as five and as much as thirty different ones, and you can order a portion of whatever you’d like and eat them together. Lokantas are great for the low prices, but it’s also an amazing opportunity to try out different local dishes in one place. In the more outer skirts of the city or small villages, lokantas are usually family run places, and food are cooked home-style, and you know how good mom and pop places usually are….
Dishes usually vary from vegetable-based, meat-based and warming stews, with simple staples like bean soups, delicious rice and local desserts. Most of my adventures in a lokanta involves just randomly pointing at dishes and trying things out. Which is, in my opinion, the best way to eat at a lokanta.

​Langkawi is an island I’ve been to many times in my life, but have seemed to fail to narrate about here in this blog. Perhaps it’s because it was only recently that I have re-discovered this beautiful island as something other than just any old beach vacation. Recent times have seen it flourish to offer more than just commercial hotels and overcrowded tourist spots, with a more robust café culture, precious experiences and underrated beautiful hidden nooks to explore. In this particular post, I intend to share some of these less popular yet equally intriguing places to see in Langkawi, and if you’re like me, I think you’ll enjoy them as much as I did. 
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Enjoy A Hot Afternoon Chilling at the Temple Tree Café
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In the peak of midday, there are few things to do in Langkawi. The combination of high humidity and harsh sun means that the only activities you’ll want to do must require a lot of shade and minimal movement. Although there are many cafes scattered around Langkawi for you to spend the afternoon in while enjoying the balmy weather with a cold drink, I’m especially recommending the Temple Tree Café for a few reasons.

​One, it is not crowded. The café is relatively quiet, manned by friendly servers and located in a large colonial building with excellent ventilation. Two, it is beautiful. There are large shady trees, a dreamy pool and beautifully preserved old Malaysian constructions around the café for you to walk around and wonder. Three, the menu is delightful, spanning from meat to vegetarian options, with cold glasses of whatever you may fancy to soothe you from the heat. Bonus? It’s also a pet-friendly hotel, so if you adore animals like me, you’ll enjoy making friends with some cats and dogs while lazing around large wooden tables under a speedy fan as you finish reading that book you’ve always wanted to finish.

Take A Day Tour to Tuba Island
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Did you know Langkawi is an island of an archipelago of 104 islands? Yeah, me neither. What this means is that there are more to see than just merely the main island. There are local boats going to almost all of the habitable islands, and most of the boats can be taken from the main Kuah port. No pre-bookings are necessary as the boats a frequent, to cater the locals who move around for work (basically the boats serve like a water bus, if you will). Take note that safety isn’t necessarily that paramount, so expect to see no one donning life jackets and locals perched at the edge and top of these small boats, unencumbered.

​Pulau Tuba is a lovely, small island about 20 mins boat ride away from the Kuah main port of Langkawi. You don’t need more than a day to explore it, and upon arrival you’ll see plenty of motorbikes to rent for the day. Cars are rare on the island, so the roads are safe to ride in, boasting beautiful views of the sea, local villages, vast paddy fields and limestone hills. Suffice to say that you’ll need to know how to ride a motorbike to roam the island.

There is a beautiful bridge that takes you across the sea to another island, Dayang Bunting Island. Crossing this bridge in the evening will allow you a beautiful view when the sun is low. There isn’t necessarily that much to see in Dayang Bunting Island itself, so a couple of hours there should be more than enough.

​While you’re at it, don’t forget to sample Tuba Island’s famous mee udang, or prawn noodles. It’s a brothy concoction of shrimp and noodles in a savoury tangy soup, and there are a couple of different places for you try them, the more famous ones being at Mee Udang Ombak Rindu, and  the Lubuk Cempedak area. I ate at both, and thought they were equally good (I mean let’s be honest, if you travel all the way here you might as well try them all).

Sample Vegan Delicacies in Langkawi’s Blooming Vegan Scenes
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I love plant-based meals, and so whenever I stumble upon a great vegan scene I feel compelled to share them with my fellow vegetarian-loving friends! In the past few years Langkawi has begun to grow its own vegan community, and now there are plenty of amazing vegan and vegan-friendly cafes for you to try. Melior Café (ig: @meliorlangkawi) in Kuah makes pretty amazing vegan burgers, even better than most of the ones you find in KL. Membawang Café (ig: @membawang_corner) is a quaint little place that makes amazing vegan tacos and pastas. The Fat Frog (ig: thefatfroglangkawi) is a deliriously hot café located next to a golf course, but makes up for it by having amazing salads, vegan hot meals (I especially loved the tempeh and cauliflower spring rolls) and scrumptious dessert .

Visit Furry Friends at the Bon Ton Animal Shelter
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Why on earth would you visit an animal shelter while on vacation? That’s because this animal shelter is located at Bon Ton café (ig: @bontonresort), a beautiful hidden gem surrounding a small pond, with a menu that boasts delicious desserts and drinks. Bon Ton shares the same owner as the China House in Penang, and if you know China House then you know that you’re up for some good eatin’ where desserts are concerned. The animal shelter was lovingly built next to the café by the owner to cater for the strays and abandoned pets in the island, and you can stroll down the area to meet some loving, friendly furry friends who would love your attention.
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As of present, Bon Ton is in the middle of constructing an arts center, and so there could only be even more reasons to visit this place in the future.

Join Yoga Classes and Sound Bath Experiences
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Reminiscent to Bali, Langkawi is slowly embracing the appeals of the wellness vibe, offering many yoga classes and sound bathing experiences to try. My favourite ones are the yoga classes at Ambong-Ambong Villas, with an open air yoga studio perched on a high platform overlooking the beautiful blue sea. Most classes are held in the mornings and evenings, and if yoga isn’t your thang, why not try a sound bath? Despite what the name may suggest, no one will be bathing you in public, but it is a session where the instructor will be playing a lot of sound bowls as you lie down on the floor, as the soothing sounds of these Tibetan bowls are said to aid relaxation and a meditative state of mind (don’t scratch it if you haven’t tried it, it really is a unique and interesting experience).
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Another yoga class to try would be the sunset yoga sessions at the Westin Hotel, where the class is held by the beach as the sun sets in the horizon. Non-residents of the Westin Hotel are allowed to join this class too, so be sure to book a session in advance with the hotel to secure your spot. There is really nothing quite like winding down with some awesome stretches while watching the beautiful sun go down on the quiet beach.

Try a Hand at Batik Canting at Mawart Café

Remember those times when you had a small voice in your head saying “hey, I should try painting at some point in my life”? Well, here’s an opportunity. Batik Canting is a form of painting, mainly done using liquid hot wax as an outline, and beautiful dyes to paint your fabric. Sounds difficult, but it’s actually a fun activity to attempt. For as cheap as RM60, Mawart Café (ig: @rumahmawart) provides private batik canting sessions where you can create whatever you like and bring them home as your own personal art piece, under a watchful eye of a friendly, professional artist/teacher.
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It’s fun for kids, and it’s therapeutic for adults – picture a lazy evening of mindless batik canting accompanied by cups of coffee and treats (the studio is attached to a cute café). Best of all, you get to pack your piece and bring them home, perhaps as a new piece of art to commemorate your creativity.

Take a Sunset Dip At Tanjung Rhu

I know, I know. Tanjung Rhu isn’t exactly a hidden gem. But I do want to let you in on a little secret. As you approach Tanjung Rhu, keep on driving on the main road until you reach the edge of the road where it meets a beach. Park wherever you will, and then walk on along this beach towards the East, and you will come to a beautiful stretch of almost-empty sandy space with a beautiful view and gorgeous waters. There are shady spots where locals sometimes camp, but most of the time when I’m there (and I’ve been there plenty of times) it is almost empty.
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A recommended time would be nearing sunset, where the sea turns a glimmering surface of orange as you watch the sun set in between the tall peaks of limestone hills emerging from the water. Unlike the main beaches in the West of the island, the water here is a lot more calm and serene, making it perfect for a late evening dip. Bring drinks, a book and some sunblock – this beach is also perfect for quiet isolation and relaxation.

Climb the Many Peaks of Langkawi

The ancient, rugged topography of Langkawi means that there plenty of trails for you to hike in and enjoy breathtaking views of the island from an elevation. The more famous trails are the Machincang, Gunung Raya and Kilim trails, with a range of fairly easy to slightly harder difficulty levels. For an easy, quick climb that takes no more than a couple of hours, try the Kilim trails. For a slightly harder but rewarding peak, Machincang mountain is the way to go. Start very early in the morning and you should be able to reach the top by early noon, and feast your eyes on a 360 view of the island and seas.
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Don’t forget to bring snacks and adequate water, and for the best experience, wear proper hiking shoes as some of the rock formations can be sharp and slippery at times. If you love a good hike, you won’t be disappointed with what Langkawi has to offer.